Organic Belgian Ales from Rockmill Brewery: A Review

A few weeks ago, we got our first sampling of Central Ohio's newest addition to the brew scene, Rockmill Brewery near Lancaster. While we haven't yet had the opportunity to tour the farm, brewer Matthew Barbee is taking the show on the road. Offering samples at several Columbus-area restaurants and retailers, we caught up with him at Ohio Market Day at Hills Market in Worthington.

It would be sacrilege to describe the offerings of Rockmill Brewery as "beer." The four Belgian ales are organic and brewed from the natural spring deep in the ground on his farm. Testing indicates that the spring water is very similar to that in Wallonia, Belgium, the birthplace of Saison, the original farmhouse ale. I was reminded of my education in "mineral" taste at an Ontario winery.

This new generation of farmhouse ales lives up to the tradition of popular Belgian ales. A summer favorite for real beer enthusiasts, wheat beers are lighter in body with a small taste of hops. Rockmill's Witbier is good start for newcomers to the craft beer scene - not overwhelming with just a slight hint of citrus.

With a slightly heavier hop taste, the Saison is a low-alcohol light-tasting ale. This is a summer dinner beer, blending perfectly for lighter fare or something from the grill. This was our bottle selection from this tasting with my boyfriend declaring it his new favorite.

I admit to being fond of bigger ales with a slightly fruity taste. Barbee's Dubbel fills the bill. A Trappist-style Belgian, this brown ale has a higher ABV (6%-8%) and the fruit is subtle.

More than any other, I'm a fan of big beers. I want a hearty ale with bold tastes. Rockmill's Tripel gives me the chocolate and coffee notes that I enjoy in a stout with a more golden color.

Barbee's method of marketing should make a believer out of any craft ale lover. He has teamed up with some of Columbus' best restaurants for tasting menus and pairings. The Rockmill Brewery website offers cheese pairings. Contrary to what I used to think, wine isn't the only thing that goes well with food and dessert and cheese and...

If you get a chance to attend a tasting, don't expect someone who has been hired as a salesman. Not only the brewer, Barbee stands behind his small-batch ales by personally pouring the samples and enthusiastically sharing the smallest details of the bottle-conditioned gems.

Small batch organic Belgian ale. Bottle conditioned. Made in central Ohio and distributed by the brewer himself. There's several reasons to appreciate Rockmill Brewery and not a single reason to not give it a try.