Oriental Rugs: A Buyer's Guide

Like human fingerprints, their patterns are similar but no two are alike. They can be as simple as a 2-by-3 ''prayer rug'' - historically used by Moslems - or as ornate as the legendary gold and jewel-laden ''garden rugs,'' woven by concubines for ancient Oriental princes.

Oriental rugs are once again a significant factor in the American marketplace. All the rage during the 1920s, '30s and '40s, they faded with the advent of wall-to-wall carpeting and slipped into an elitist mode. Today, as prices drop and wood floors become more popular, the trend is once again reversing.

Rug making in the Orient began centuries ago among nomadic desert tribes. The coarse, hand-spun wools were from sheep, llamas and camels and the rich dyes generally were made from secret recipes of crushed plants and insects. Today the wools used are finer, and inexpensive colorfast chemicals have replaced vegetable dyes. The intricate, hand-tied carpets that once were reserved for royalty and the wealthy have garnered a multibillion-dollar worldwide consumer market.

Because of the steeply climbing demand, most of the scattered tiny carpet shops of the East and Far East have been replaced by weaving factories. The rugs are still handmade, and the quality generally is still as good, but to keep up with demand, the weavers have been forced to modernize. In addition to the traditional rectangular shapes, rugs now are available in long hallway runners and round shapes. Prices for new rugs run as low as $80 or $120 for prayer rugs, up to $15,000 for room-sized, 9-by-12 rugs. Antique rugs can hold values in the millions of dollars.

In addition to size, price varies with design, quality, rarity and the country of origin. Most pricey rugs will be a worthwhile investment, over time, but the less expensive rugs (from India and China) are the best short-term investments. A better quality 9-by-12 rug takes two to three weavers up to one year to complete. Quality is measured in knots-per-inch, and better rugs have between 100 and 300 knots-per-inch. Top quality rugs may have up to 800 knots-per-inch.

A quick look at the bottom of the rug will show knot tightness; most rugs also are labeled to show knots-per-inch. Tighter weaves last longer, but looser weaves are more affordable and usually will last long enough to get your money's worth of enjoyment from them. In general, the tighter the knot, the more intricate the pattern. But, as with all artwork, you should pick a design and color scheme that you really like and wouldn't mind looking at for as long as you keep the rug. If properly cared for, a good quality rug should last for 65 or 70 years.

Another test of quality is to run your hand over the wool nap. It should feel relatively smooth and not brittle. When you rub your fingers together, they should feel slightly oily from lanolin, a natural lubricant in wool and other animal hairs.

The fringe is the skeleton of the rug. The best fringes are made of cotton, but wool is a good substitute. Avoid rugs with fringes of any other fabric, including silk or a synthetic material. If the fringed edge is discolored, it's a pretty good sign that the rug is older and has been colored with vegetable dye. This really is not an indication of value as much as a measure of personal taste. Vegetable dyes yield only a few rich colors, but they fade pleasantly. Chrome dyes are colorfast and offer the pastels that prove more popular today.

The patterns are as different as cities from which they originate, and the designs usually take the names of those cities. For example, Kasham rugs, from Kasham, Iran, are known for center medallions surrounded by arabesques of flowers or trees. Nians are known for rich blues and ivory, also with floral designs. Many Persian designs incorporate the botha, a pine cone-like symbol for long life.

Tribal rugs tend to be more geometric in design, and the ones from Pakistan incorporate some unusual colors. You should think of them as individual pieces of art. When choosing one you want the colors and patterns to flow with the rest of your furnishings, just like a painting.'

Iranian rugs generally cost two to three times as much as other rugs, chiefly due to the U.S. trade embargo imposed on that country. New Iranian rugs, however, still make their way into the United States through European countries, but the quality is waning because many Iranian master weavers have fled the country over the years.

The best Oriental rug values today come from India, Pakistan and China. Weavers there have perfected the trade to match or exceed the quality of Persian rugs. And they have responded better to the American demand for a greater variety of colors.

The rugs generally run about one third the cost of Persian rugs and, so far, have held their values just as long.

Most dealers will give you a signed appraisal or certificate of authenticity when you buy. If they are hesitant, it may be a sign that their products either are not genuine or may be smuggled goods.