Panda Express: Food Court Staple Delivers Salty Sustenance

I've been to a Panda Express in Natick, Massachusetts, and, more recently, to one in Tempe, Arizona. One unfortunate trait unites them both: saltiness. Admittedly, my first visit to the Asian-style fast food chain was during my college years, when most anything not shoveled out of a stainless steel pit in the cafeteria looks, even tastes, gourmet. And after a morning fending off aggressive holiday shoppers at thje local suburban mall, greasy teriyaki chicken heaped on a bed of bright white rice looked (and smelled) pretty good.

The Natick Panda Express was located in the mall food court. Food court ambiance, with its crowded tables of shopping bags, crying children, and red trays loaded with foil-wrapped food, is perfectly suited to this type of food. By their very design, food courts are appealing. The sizzlings sounds and aromas, and the caloric potential - Ben and Jerry's, Gloria Jean's, and Jamba Juice all within arm's length! Or, better yet, there's a sense of confidence in knowing that, at the bustling noon hour, you'll be getting orange chicken that has not been congealing in a metal tray for twenty minutes.

The second Panda Express that I visited is, by contrast, located on a strip of cheap eateries near the Arizona State University campus. Whatever the setting, assembly line service ensures a quick meal. For around five dollars, give or take a buck, you can compose your meal using one, two, or three of the main dishes, plus a side - generally rice or steamed vegetables.

Menu items include variations on beef, pork, or chicken with vegetables: broccoli, mushrooms, eggplant. You get the picture - nothing terribly unexpected; even the pickiest of eaters can be satisfied. Besides, there's always the teriyaki chicken - no vegetables to speak of, just poultry smothered in a tangy sauce. I opted for a "Bowl," which included one main entrée and a side for under the five dollar mark.

This was sufficient for a fast lunch. As I was not dining during peak lunch hour, the food was of the congealed variety - lukewarm, a little mushy, and undeniably salty. If it's one thing (aside from fat, of course) that makes any fast food-type meal a health problem, it's sodium. Sodium is even more glaringly problematic when it dominates the taste, as is the case at ol' Panda Express.

Bottom line: If you're looking for quick, fresh, tasty Asian food, Panda Express doesn't quite hit the mark; it will forever be etched into my mind as food court fair. If you're willing to sacrifice freshness (and all sodium intake for the rest of the day), Panda Express will do the trick.