Patan: The Alternative to Kathmandu

Sitting across the river from Kathmandu, Nepal's second largest city of Patan is easy to think of as being merely a continuation of its capital and largest city. However, it is a city with a distinct identity of its own. For a tourist, it comes complete with its own set of must-see sights, and presents a quieter alternative to staying in Kathmandu.

A symbol of Patan's independent status is its own Durbar (royal) Square. This palace and the surrounding temples are at least as attractive and interesting as their counterparts in Kathmandu's Durbar Square. Arguably the highlight is the stone octagonal Temple of Vishnu. The streets surrounding the square are home to many metal and woodworking shops, which make this a good place to go hunting for souvenirs.

However, on the must-see list for all visitors to Nepal is the Golden Temple, sited just north of Patan's Durbar Square. This Buddhist temple, festooned with prayer flags and stuffed with butter lamps, candles, incense, and prayer wheels, is heavily decorated with gold and silver plating. Indeed, the roof of the inner pagoda of the Temple uses gold-plated shingles. It is the only temple in Patan that charges an entrance fee, but that is well worth it.

Patan in general has a much stronger Buddhist presence than Kathmandu, and in the valley is eclipsed on that note only by Bodhnath. A second, more modern temple is modeled after the Mahabodhi Temple of Bodh Gaya, India. There is also a truly ancient stupa, the foundations of which are almost 1,800 years old. Legend has it that five stupas were erected by the Indian emperor Ashoka during a visit, of which this one is the sole survivor. There are over 1,200 lesser Buddhist temples, statues, and shrines in the Patan area.

A place like Patan makes a great choice for those looking to get away from the main tourist beat of Kathmandu, and especially its tourist district of Thamel. Indeed, it is standard fare of many tourist guides to suggest that anyone making a repeat visit to Kathmandu heads immediately to Patan. It is a sensible enough decision. Anyone visiting the Kathmandu Valley will necessarily make the trip to Patan anyway. There is nothing in Kathmandu that cannot be easily accessed from there, and it offers a quieter, slower place to stay, as well as a slightly different view on Nepali urban life.

The main problem confronting those who stay in Patan is the near-complete absence of nightlife. Absolute is the only bar of note on that side of the river, and while it is one of the best in the entire Valley, it is all alone. Things get really quiet in Patan come midnight, but for those who want to get a little tranquility out of Nepal, that is not such a bad thing. Just remember to steer clear of the Lazy Gringo: while they do try hard, Americans eating there will only find their craving for chips and salsa and a good burrito compounded rather than satiated.

Sources: Personal experience.