Plan a Caribbean Adventure on St. Croix: An Insider's Guide

People who've been to St.Croix will tell you how turquoise the ocean is. I guarantee it will take your breath away! The beckoning, bath-warm water is just one of many attractions that make St. Croix an "Island of Superlatives" Coral reefs surrounding the island give swimmers protection from huge waves, as well as limiting the size and number of cruise ships to visit the island. The local folk, Cruzans, are laid back people with ready smiles. If you don't expect things to move fast, you'll enjoy your stay. Feel the stress peeling off like layers of an onion!

St. Croix is an easy vacation. It's a brief flight from the mainland. Since it's a U.S. Virgin Island, you don't need a passport, the currency is the dollar, and folks speak English. Cruzans do speak an island patois, but it isn't as imcomprehesible as a Boston accent when you first hear it! One major difference is Cruzans drive on the left, which is easy to forget if you've had a couple rum drinks. Liquor laws are a lot looser. You can walk around, or drive, with an alcoholic beverage. Even fast food joints sell beer and wine!

You can arrange ahead of time for a rental car at the airport, or rely on taxi drivers. They know everything that goes on and can help you in many ways. They're the village elders gathered in the corner on folding chairs at the airport, discussing current affairs. Be willing to bargain a little! We got a taxi to our resort, and then had Budget Rental Car drop off a Jeep when we were rested and ready to explore.

On our last visit, my husband and I stayed at Carambola Resort on Davis Bay. Originally commissioned by Laurence Rockefeller, he proclaimed it the most beautiful place on earth The beach is protected, and kept pristine. Ample lounge chairs and hammocks welcome you to relax and be soothed by gentle waves. On Sunday, you are encouraged to honor the age-old tradition of "Lyman", or relaxing with no worries. I can't think of a better place to do it! At Carambola, we enjoyed many resort amenities with a Caribbean twist. The suites include a screened in porch where you can relax with coffee in the morning, or light a romantic candle in the evening. They have refrigerators and in-room safes for valuables. Step out for a stroll on the beach, and wade in warm water under moonlight. Or go up to the bar/clubhouse for some nightlife.and later fall asleep to soothing waves and the songs of night creatures.

The main dining room (Saman Room) hosts breakfast, lunch,and marvelous buffets with a wide variety of foods both island and mainland style. For entertainment we were treated to a steel pan band, DJ's, and "Mocko Jumby" (ghost dancers) that perform amazing moves on ten foot stilts! There is an open air bar next to the swimming pool, which offers tasty "pub grub" and an elegant restaurant (Mahogany Room) that will serve you seafood, steak, or game cooked a variety of gourmet ways.

When you get settled in, go to the bar and order a "Calypso Daquiri", a concoction of rum liqours that slides down like coconut ice cream! You'll be feeling "Aiy-ree" Locally made Cruzan Rum is excellent and an incredible bargain! It's so smooth and pure you aren't likely to be hungover unless you completely overdo. It comes in a variety of flavors light, dark, and fruity including an interesting "black-strap" popular with the Navy. Don't miss the tour at the Cruzan Rum distillery. It's fascinating, and afterwards you are treated to rum tasting at the bar.

To the Cruzans, good food is a blessing and a joy! St. Croix, has been under seven flags, and it shows in the cuisine. You can get anything from hot and spicy to fancy fare. If you want to get island flavor and save some money, go where the Cruzans eat. In Christiansted, the main city, you can't go wrong with Harvey's or Kim's. Harvey's has been there since the 50's. They aren't fancy, but they're fun, and offer plentiful plates of local dishes. Try the Goat, which is rich like lamb without the fat. If you prefer seafood, try the conch (pronounced "conk" ), a meaty shellfish cooked in butter and garlic. Have a beer with lime, and visit. You might make a friend or hear a good story! Speaking of stories, do visit The Club Comanche. Opened in 1948, the decor hasn't changed and chronicles an amazing history! If you're lucky, someone will fill you in. Christiansted was a hangout of Alexander Hamilton and Hemingway, so interesting stories abound. Take a dip in the pool if you wish, it was the first one built on the island!

There are numerous open air bars along the Boardwalk and King's Alley, including one at the intersection thereof called the "Fort Christian Brew Pub". Many of them have great food! I've had wonderful breakfasts (think Seafood Benedict) and lunches. For the most awe-inspiring sunset of your life go to the Sunset Grill, Route 63 on the west side, and enjoy a juicy Buffalo Burger while you're at it! The Hotel on the Cay, on Protestant Cay, hosts a big Beach Barbecue with plentiful food, drink, and entertainment such as "fire stick" limbo, and a "King Voodoo" who spits fire and dances barefoot on broken glass A ferry boat will take you over to the feast. During the day, venture into the rainforest and stop by the Domino Club. Have a cheap beer and a bite, then visit the grave of their beloved beer-drinking pig. The roads are rugged, so all wheel drive is recommended. Stop by 150-foot Creque Dam. You will see beautiful old mahogany, yellow cedar, and Tibet trees, and hear the doves calling

St. Croix is large enough to have mini climates. In contrast to the rainforest and lush beaches to the west, Point Udall, the easternmost point inf the United States, is an arrid desert shore with many cacti. Warm sun and winds stroke your hair as you stand at the foot of a stone monument reminiscent of a sun dial. As you gaze across the vast ocean, the next stop is Africa! The drive to the east side will take you along stunning beaches and flower-lined roads. If you're hungry stop by Duggan's Reef, owned by an ex-patriot from Boston. The food is good, if more prosaic, and the walls are festooned with memorabilia from Boston sports teams. The ocean view is reason enough to visit! Alternately, Cramer Park is a gorgeous public beach to take a picnic lunch.

It is a sad fact the St. Croix was part of the slave trade, and this legacy adds a sub-text to the culture. Exploring historical sites takes you on a fascinating journey.from it's discovery by Columbus (at Salt River) to more recent events. Fort Christiansvaern is an imposing yellow Danish fortress on the waterfront in Christiansted, where you can have a tour and then view other buildings that figured in trade with Europe. The Whim Plantation, is an 18th Century sugar plantation preserved, where you can have a guided tour of the greathouse, grounds, and wind powered sugar mill. Indeed, Christianstead itself feels ancient. Spanish and Danish buildings date from the 1600-1700's. Many island women still wear headdresses.The U.S. Parks Dept. maintains the fort, as well as Buck's Island, which is the only underwater national park in the U.S. On the boardwalk in Christiansted you can hire a boat to get the there for a tour and snorkeling. You will see amazing fish, and the iguana are protected!

St. Croix offers a wealth of tourist adventures: camping, snorkeling, golfing, fishing, boating, duty-free shopping, botanical riches and history. Bring sunscreen, shades, and a hat, since the Sun is intense this close to the equator. But who can complain about weather that is typically sunny and in the 80's? Pack casual and forget the sweaters!

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