Planting and Growing Garlic in My Illinois Backyard

Inspired by the success of my sister and some Facebook friends, I've decided to experiment with growing garlic in my suburban Chicago garden.

Researching garlic last summer, I learned that there are two varieties of garlic. Hardneck varities produce flower stalks (scapes). Softneck varities do not. Hardneck varieties are thought to be more like wild garlic. Softneck garlic is much like the varieties grown in California for mass production.

In late summer, I ordered some Inchelium Red garlic from the Territorial Seed Company. This is a softneck garlic variety originally developed or found in northern Washington. Inchelium Red has a mild flavor. Territorial Seed Company recommends baking it and using it in mashed potatoes. I chose Inchelium Red because the University of Illinois said that it did well in their trials. Other varieties they recommended were Spanish Roja, Carpathian, Silver Star, and Idaho Silverskin. Alas, the seed companies were sold out of these varieties by the time I ordered.

Lesson for next year: if I grow garlic again, order early.

In northern climates, garlic is planted in the fall for harvest the following summer. According to the University of Illinois, the timing of planting garlic is critical. Planting garlic too early means that there will be too many green shoots that will be killed by frost in winter. Planting garlic too late does not allow enough time for the root growth required for the plant to do well in winter. Thus, it's important to look up information about when to plant garlic in your area, or ask local gardeners who grow it.

In the Northern United States, gardeners generally plant garlic in October. In the Southern United States, garlic is planted from November through January.

Garlic requires well-drained soil rich in organic matter. To ensure enough organic matter, I'll probably cover my garlic with some of the fall leaves from the lawn, which we always re-use somewhere on the garden, rather than setting them out in bags on the curb. Territorial Seed Company warns that garlic does not do well in dense soil with low fertility. According to the University of Minnesota's cooperative extension, garlic with large dark green leaves is getting enough nitrogen. Garlic with pale yellow or green leaves needs more.

The Inchelium Red garlic that came from my supplier looks like regular garlic cloves that you'd buy at the farmer's market or grocery store. According to the planting instructions, I'll be separating the garlic bulbs into individual cloves. I'll then plant each clove 4 to 6 (about 10 cm) inches apart, and cover them with 1 to 2 inches (about 3 cm) of soil. The University of Minnesota advises me to plant my garlic cloves pointed side up. Planting garlic cloves with the pointed side facing down apparently affects how it sprouts and gives misshapen bulbs. The University of Minnesota also says that garlic spaced farther apart gives larger bulbs; planting cloves closer together gives higher yields, presumably in limited space. I'll probably be planting my garlic as far apart as I can, though I generally do not plant in rows.

In cold climates, such as Minnesota, covering garlic with a good thick layer of weed-free mulch is recommended. Presumably my fall leaves can fulfill this purpose. Mulch is removed when the threat of hard frosts is over.

Once garlic sprouts, weed control is important. Garlic competes poorly against weeds, and competition from weeds can stunt bulb development. Both universities suggest methods for controlling weeds in agricultural settings. I plan to plant my garlic in a spot where weeds have not been a particular problem, and resort to hand-pulling or hoeing. That's usually how I control weeds in my vegetable garden.

If the garlic forms flowers (scapes) in the spring, I should cut these off. Doing so will keep the plant from expending energy on growing seeds, redirecting it to the bulbs. Besides that, I can eat the scapes. They are a delicacy used in stir fries or salads, and they can be steamed. Because Inchelium Red is a softneck garlic variety, I probably won't be getting garlic scapes.

Garlic is susceptible to many of the same diseases and pests as onions. Neither the University of Minnesota nor the University of Illinois considered garlic to be especially susceptible to pests and diseases.

I should harvest the garlic when the tops die down, with only 4 to 6 green leaves left. Garlic harvesting is generally done in mid-summer, in July or early August.

Once I've harvested the garlic, the University of Illinois suggests removing excess soil but not washing the cloves, and laying down whole plants on screens or hanging them in small bunches to dry them. I should let the Inchelium Red garlic cure in a warm, well-ventilated room out of direct sunlight for about 4-6 weeks. Once the garlic has cured, I can trim off the roots and tops, and remove the dirty outer skins. Curing and storage affect garlic flavor and bring out differences between varieties.

Territorial Seed Company tells me the garlic should keep for about 4 to 6 months.