Plants for the Shade: Pachysandra

Pachysandra has gradually become one of my favorite plants for the shade. I say "gradually," because pachysandra can take a little time to take hold in your shade garden. Once it does, though, it will spread rapidly and provide a lovely carpet of ground cover.

Japanese spurge (Pachysandra terminalis) is probably the most popular of the different varieties of pachysandra (often commonly referred to as "spurge"). This particular spurge has glossy evergreen leaves. The leaves are oval-shaped and grow in groups that remind me of rosettes. Growing to be 6-12 inches tall, Japanese spurge makes the perfect ground cover under deciduous trees, rhododendrons, azaleas, and dwarf conifers. It will produce small white flowers in the spring; however, I have never really paid much attention to the rather insignificant blooms. The foliage is the star of this plant.

Another variety of pachysandra is a native of my own region of East Tennessee; i.e., the Great Smoky Mountains. This variety is commonly known as Allegheny spurge (Pachysandra procumbens) and is distinguished from the Japanese version by its broader leaves that are light green and which turn bronze in the fall. It also forms clumps more than does the Japanese pachysandra and is, therefore, less likely to spread as fast once it takes hold in the garden. I have a variety of this particular pachysandra known as 'Forest Green,' which has mottled gray leaves. This adds some color and an interesting contrast to the Japanese pachysandra with which I have it planted.

Different varieties of pachysandra are hardy in different zones; although, generally they are hardy in Zones 5-9. They do not like the sun at all; although, they can tolerate a little morning sun. (They definitely need protection from the hot afternoon sun.) Pachysandra prefers moist, rich soil but will adapt to the dry soil often found in shade gardens. You will do well, however, to water them regularly, especially during the hot summer months. Avoid overhead watering, though, unless done in the early morning so the foliage can have time to dry before nightfall. Leaf blight can be a problem in areas where the summers are hot and humid. (I have not had any problem with my pachysandras, and the summers are most certainly hot and humid in Tennessee.)

There is no need to cut back pachysandra in the fall. New leaves will begin to emerge in the spring, at which time you can cut away any dead leaves from the winter. (Cutting the plant back will mean no blooms in the spring.) If necessary, propagate through divisions taken in the early spring.

Low-growing pachysandra teams up well with such plants as mayapple, ferns, and hellebores. You might also want to choose some plants that bloom in the shade, such as Virginia bluebells and trilliums. I have some toad lilies planted with mine, too. [See my Plant Profile: Toad Lily.] Whatever plants you choose to include, you will find that pachysandra is a carefree and adaptable ground cover that works extremely well in those shady areas of your landscape.

References:

Blume, James. D., ed. Perennials for Today's Gardens. Des Moines, IA: Meredith Books, 2000.

Hodgson, Larry. Perennials for Every Purpose. Emmaus, PA: Rodale Organic Living Books, 2000.