Prague Pubs at Night

The fourteenth century was known as "Prague's Golden Age". King Charles IV (1346-1378) ruled with a firm but fair hand. Due in no small part to his foresight and vision, he established Prague as one of the most culturally renowned and prosperous cities in all of Europe.

Fast forward several centuries later. I'm walking the streets of Prague's Old Town in early January. It's after 8pm. A light snow is falling. Despite 2 sweaters, I'm still feeling the bite of cold winds blowing off the Vltava River. There are hundreds of people milling around, and Old Town's many street lamps create a cascade of dancing shadows on the building-facades to my right and left. Like the other visitors here, I'm searching for something: a meal, a beer and a little music perhaps. I'm in luck, because comfortably nestled in the alleys and gothic cellars lives Prague's nightlife. Paris may be called the "City of Light" and Rome may be known as the "City of Wonders". But Prague - the "City of One Hundred Spires" thanks to its many churches, is unlike any city I've ever seen. Seven hundred years of history seamlessly rest side-by-side the sights and sounds of modern society.

The real Prague nightlife I'm looking for doesn't jump out at you. Prague at night speaks a different language. It's there as you run your hand over the stone blocks that support the buildings found in Old Town. It's seduces you as you walk over the old cobblestone streets of Mala' Strana (the Lesser Quarter) below the Prague Castle. It's the shadows cast by age old statues and monuments that echo back to tough times and even tougher people.

My first stop on this particularly chilly evening was Pivnice U Rudolfina (222 328 758), located at Krizovnicka 10, and not far from Old Town Square. This is so typical of the Czech pubs I was mentioning earlier. This is where the locals go, but no one will kick you out for being a tourist. Simple décor, loud atmosphere, half-liter glasses of beer, traditional Czech cuisine and lots of smoke. Don't bother asking for a non-smoking section because there isn't one. Like most Czech pubs - at least the ones I visited - Pivnice U Rudolfina closes around 11pm. But don't worry. The night is still young. Consider this a warm-up.

If bar/pub hopping is your plan you need to start early. My motives were to go where the locals go. Travel time (on foot) included, you'll be hard-pressed to see more than a handful of pubs in one night, especially if you start after 8pm. I may have started out alone, but it's so easy to make friends with the locals. Sure, they stare. You're on their turf! But a smile and a round of beers will break down even the hardest exterior.

U Medvídkuo (224 211 976), located at Perstyne 7 and not far from Wenceslas Square. Nearest Metro Stop: Národní Trída on the B-line. Remember what I said about Prague's "Golden Age?" Well, this pub's been around since 1466. They serve Budvar lager and traditional Czech cuisine (surprise - menu in English!). Casual to a fault. You come, you eat, you soak in the atmosphere. Full of old photographs and other knick-knacks from a by-gone age. They close at midnight.

This night I'm a man on mission. Next is Jachymka (224 819 621). Located at Jachymova 4. Basic directions from some folks at my hotel. Nearest Metro: Staromestská on the A-line Just a street or two from Old Town Square. Used to be an industrial beer factory interior. Relaxed no-nonsense setting for a meal and a beer. Standard Czech cuisine. As close to a "family place" as I can think of. Menu in English but prices are for the locals. Closes around midnight.

With nearly 70 pubs in and around Old Town, you have to get your priorities in order. You'll notice that I have not provided you with what I consider "treasure map" directions. i.e. "find the statue of King Charles and take 40 steps to your right until you find the pub with the deer head mounted above the door.…" Not this time. Old Town, Mala Strana and New Town are each pretty easy to maneuver around. Simple city maps are available in every hotel and more detailed ones can be purchased at news stands and gift shops. My recommendation - use the metro system to get into town and then do what everyone else does: walk and ask directions! Reconnoiter during the day, and then regroup and head back out at night.

The great thing about Prague nightlife is that the pubs warm you up and allow you to segue into the early morning. Once the pubs close between 11pm and midnight, the disco's and jazz bars are all getting into swing. Most discos stay open until 3 or 4am. Here's a peak at three of Prague's most popular nightspots:

La Fabrique: Uhelny Trh 2, Old Town. Nearest Metro: Mustek (lines A & B).One of Prague's oldest and most well-known clubs. About 2 minutes from Wenceslas Square and maybe 5 minutes from the Old Town Square. Popular for a reason: There's a pub on the first floor, a wine/cheese bar in the cellar and then below THAT, a nightclub that keeps hopping until 4 am.
The Roxy. Dlouha 33, Old Town. Nearest Metro: Namesti Republiky (line B). Long lines and a great mix of young and trendy. Imported DJ's. Great tunes. Open until 5am.

One of the coolest places in Prague to hang out if you're into serious clubbing is Karlovy Lazne. Novotneho Lavka5, Old Town. Nearest Metro: Staromeska (Line A) Spread over four floors and sitting next to the Charles Bridge, this is the biggest club in Central Europe. Each level of the club plays a different set of tunes. Just one entrance fee gets you into all four.
Honorable mention goes to the Hardrock Café which stays open until 4am.

But I've just scratched the surface. If you consider that during the day; Prague offers visitors more than they can possibly see during a brief vacation, then Prague at NIGHT is even more intense: a week, a month or even longer only provides a hint at the pubs, clubs, theatres and jazz bars that beckon.

This is Prague nightlife - full of textures and feelings that speak more eloquently than any poet. It's a sidewalk musician scrounging change by strumming a guitar, or a lone violinist playing his heart out for enough money to buy a late night meal.

The winds howl around me and I can't believe the hour. For just a moment I'm in another time and place. This is Prague nightlife. It's there waiting. All you have to do is look for it.