Product Review: GE Profile Electric Range Model PB920TPWW

Many serious home cooks covet a large, pro-style range like those popular in high-end kitchen remodels. As my kitchen lacked both space for one and the gas hookup, I opted for a 30" GE Profile electric range, which was highly rated by Consumer Reports.

The model I purchased (PB920TPWW) is white to match my other appliances, but the range is also available in stainless and black finishes. It includes a large-single oven with European style convection, a warming drawer, high-output and low-output burners, a warming zone on the stove top, a smooth top cooking surface, and electronic controls. Over the last few weeks, I've been putting the range to the test.

The burners heat up and cool down quickly, though not as quickly as gas burners. The electronic burner controls, which took some getting used to after years of knob use, more precisely control the burner output than knobs. My stove has about 20 separate temperature settings for each burner. The size of the two large front burners is also adjusted with the controls to fit the pot.

The convection oven heats evenly (convection is also used to preheat the oven) and browns baked goods well. Using the convection setting does require that you shorten the baking time or lower the oven temperature slightly. The convection baking produced very evenly browned gingerbread cookies and muffins that rose higher than in a conventional oven.

Included with the oven are 3 racks and 7 positions. Even with convection, chicken legs placed on the highest rack position did not brown quite as well as on a lower rack. Set at 350 degrees, the convection oven cooked a 4 ½ pound unstuffed whole chicken in about 1 ½ hours, only slightly shorter than for conventional cooking. The skin, however, was more browned.

The griddle attachment that came with my range is only available on some models. This is quite similar to, but much better than, my 30-year-old electric frying pan. A nonstick griddle fits over two burners, and controls on the stove allow the user to set predetermined temperatures (the default is 375 degrees F). Pork chops I cooked on the griddle, which is also useful for pancakes, came out with a beautiful browned crust and juicy interior.

Although my model does not have a "proof" setting for bread dough like some, I was able to raise yeasted bread dough in the oven with the door closed and the light on. A slow-cook setting worked well for meatballs in tomato sauce and would be useful for stews (I don't have a Crock-Pot).

I have not yet tested the broiler or the Sabbath Mode. Oddly, the broiler pan is not included with the stove but must be purchased separately for about $15.

My one beef with the stove is that the cooktop on the white model is white. That makes it difficult to keep a clean and neat appearance; as with most smoothtops, the manufacturer suggests a special cleaner. So far, that has worked to remove evidence of spills.

All in all, I can recommend this stove for a serious home cook who desires a full-featured range. It offers good performance and the list price ($1700-$1800), while not low, is lower than for the high-end European and induction ranges. If you buy, wait for one of the frequent sales on the model.