Professionally Mount Your Own Puzzle for Framing

Harold Dean Sink
There are many people who want to mount and frame their puzzles after they have spent the many hours piecing them together. The first thing to think about before even attempting such a feat is where you want it hung up in your home. Since puzzles are not a painting, but yet a print, they can fade over time if kept where sunlight will constantly be shining upon it.

You will need to treat your puzzle as if it were an archival museum piece. This may mean storing it in a cool, dry and dark environment for sometime, while you have another puzzle or picture hanging in its place. A garage is not the place for such an item. Make room in a bedroom closet or keep it under a bed in a storage container. The proper care should be considered when mounting a puzzle for framing.

Since most puzzles are about the same thickness as a mat board, think about having the matting around the picture. With this method you can frame the puzzle in a regular wood or metal frame. There are at least two methods for finding the perfect mat board for your puzzle. The first is to find the one color in the puzzle that is least predominant. Match that with a mat board and you will be surprised at how well it accentuates the puzzle.

The second method to picking the right color in a mat board for your puzzle is to not use the top two most predominant colors, but yet the third, fourth, etc. one that will match. The two most used colors in a puzzle need to stand out. Therefore, you would overstate the obvious in matching to either of these two colors. Toning it down will be your best bet when choosing a mat board.

Another method for choosing the right color is to find the color that is opposite of the predominant color in the puzzle on a color wheel. For instance, if your puzzle is of red roses, find a shade of green that would look good around them. Turquoise may be the predominate color in yours. So look for a shade of orange with a bit more red in it. You may even prefer a shade of orange with a little more yellow in it.

The next step is to decide if you want single or double matting. The first mat board will need to be cut to encase the puzzle as tightly as possible. This will reduce the chances of open space showing up between the puzzle pieces. Remember, this mat board with be the one with the least amount of color showing, unless you want the overlaying mat board cut differently.

The second mat board that overlays the first will normally be cut by a professional to reveal 1/4" to 3/8" of the mat board below it. The lower mat board can be any color you want it to be. Asking a professional framer for advice is always a good idea. Depending on the size of the mat boards, typically the cost can vary from $35 on up to $75 or more depending upon who you take it to for mounting and framing.

The back piece, also known as the "backer board," is what the puzzle will rest upon. The backer board can be another mat board, chipboard, or foam board. Any of these will work fine. Make sure the foam board is acid free. Acid free chipboard is more expensive that the other two styles of backer board, so make certain that is what you want.

Once the first mat board is cut to the precise size of the puzzle, set it aside. If you want a three inch border around the puzzle including the reveal of the mat board below the top one, then The outside dimensions should match on both top mat boards and the backer board. Slide the puzzle off of whatever it was placed upon, onto the front of the backer board.

Adhere a thin double-sided tape to the backside of the mat board that will go around the puzzle. There should be tape on the inside and outside perimeters running the full length. Carefully press the tape side down onto the backer board making certain that all corners are square.

Do not glue the puzzle to the backer board as it will actually increase in value over time. Slide the puzzle into place being careful not to let it come apart. Cinch it into place until all pieces are snuggly fitting into the mat board. Slide these into an archival shrink-wrap that is clear like glass. Be extremely careful not to get the heater blower too close to the actual puzzle.

Once it is tight enough to keep the puzzle in place, turn it over and finish it up. Stop heating at the first sign of the mats bowing. Try not to let it get that far along anyway. Turn the mounted puzzle over to examine the shrink-wrap for any bubbles or wrinkles. If there are you need to start this process all over again. This is the frustrating stage of this process. It has to be just right before mounting the second mat board.

Just as you did before, place double-sided tape on the backside of the second mat board. Yes, it is okay to stick this to the shrink-wrap. You do not tape it only if the entire mounting is going to have glass on it. You can then mount this into your frame by whichever process you deem necessary.

Now you have a professionally mounted and framed puzzle you can enjoy looking at and never have to put it together again. Your family and friends may just be in awe that you did this yourself. If you choose to have a professional to mount your puzzle Museum style, Hobby Lobby has been doing this for years.

Published by Harold Dean Sink

I don't write as much as I used to, but I do find it as a way to put my thoughts on paper or on the computer.  View profile

  • You will need to treat your puzzle as if it were an archival museum piece.
  • Asking a professional framer for advice is always a good idea.
  • Your family and friends may just be in awe that you did this yourself.
Do not glue the puzzle to the backer board as it will actually increase in value over time.

1 Comments

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  • Erna Janssens1/20/2011

    Sounds great. However, it would be helpful for me if pictures were added to the different steps of the process. Please!
    Erna

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