Pruning the Old Apple Tree

Cynthia Boyd
Of course, there are times when the best solution is to remove the tree or trees and replace them with young, vigorous stock of improved varieties. Pruning is best done in late winter shortly before growth begins. Many find pruning the maze of branches in a neglected tree bewildering. However, the understanding of a few basic pruning goals makes selection of branches for removal fairly easy.

Very large trees require special skill and equipment for safest pruning and might best be left to an experienced tree pruner. Ideally, an apple tree should have a well developed central trunk and several main branches spaced around it called "scaffold" branches. From a tree which may never have been pruned, pick those main branches which have the widest angles where they come off the trunk, or central leader. Remove those with the narrowest angles. The tree should have three to five branches spaced around the central leader.

If the tree has never been pruned and there are many large branches needing removal, spread this severe pruning over a three-year period. Extremely heavy pruning in one year invites a bark injury called sunscald or forces out abundant sprouts called "watersprouts ". Some of these watersprouts develop in the center of unpruned as well as lightly pruned trees. Whenever these shoots develop, they should be removed. After the main branches have been selected and some or all of the undesirable large branches removed, take out any broken branches, crossed branches, or drooping, weak branches. Make all cuts close to the trunk of large branches for most rapid healing.

The tree must next be thinned out to let more light in to the center as well as "headed back" to reduce its height and spread. For thinning, all brushy growth is removed so that the mass of small branches is reduced. After this is finished, a tree appears more open and less a maze of twigs and shoots. Apples produce their fruit on two year old growth. Therefore, some of this wood must remain if any fruit production in the current year is to be expected.

Many recent apple varieties produce fruit on growths called spurs. These are very short lateral branches that make very slow longitudinal growth. Spurs may be fruitful for in to 15 yeas. In addition to reducing the number of small branches along the large branches, there is also a need to reduce the length of the main branches and central leader, if one exists. The amount of cutback depends on the size of the tree, but often several feet can be removed safely.

Choose a point where a well-developed lateral branch comes off the main branch. Cut closely to this side branch. At this point the cut will heal more rapidly, and the side branch eventually become a new tip of the branch. Coat cuts more than an inch in diameter with a tree-wound dressing to protect them until they have healed.

A return to good fruit production will require more than pruning, however. Neglected trees may have had years to build up infestations of insect and disease pests. A regular spray program is essential to bring them back in to production of usable fruit.

http://www.weekendgardener.net/how-to/prune-apple-trees.htm

Published by Cynthia Boyd

I am currently getting my Master's degree and will be finished next fall. I am a freelance writer who has worked with several different publications. I am looking to get more exposure, to learn more and to b...  View profile

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