Rae of Light: A Gleaming New Culinary Experience in Philadelphia

There is no freaking reason to be loitering around Philadelphia's 30th St Station, unless you're hopping the ACELA to New York. The new Cira Centre tower is incredible to look at, but for most of us local yokels; we are better off staying away from the tangled mess of intersections and roads that make getting there akin to a game of Frogger. Unless, you're looking for you're next great meal. Hello, Rae...

Chef Daniel Stern's (former exec chef at Le Bec-Fin and the owner of hot Philadelphia eatery, Gayle) ambitious second venture, Rae, occupies 13K square feet on the ground floor of the gleaming Cira Centre. Bi-level Rae has a 220-seat dining room, a six-seat wine room and a 10-seat chef table near the open kitchen. With a mezzanine, ballroom, glass-enclosed atrium and a smaller private room, Rae is well suited for private functions. Sleek and modern, soothing and exciting, like the building it anchors, Rae is a feast for the eyes as well as the palate.

After absorbing the breathtaking architecture (see below), we started with an amuse bouche of seared tenderloin, gnocchi, and wasabi cream. (We sucked down a glass of champagne too, but this is about the food.) The new American menu is on the high-end side, divided into the a la carte standards, renditions, and lighter fare. Standards are twist on American classics, while renditions are Rae's composed signature dishes. Lighter fare, well that's what we should all be eating...We started with the cocktail reubens ($15) and smoked rabbit nachos ($10). The mini reubens were delicious bits of corned beef with a tangy Russian dressing. The nachos were deep-fried homemade tortillas stuffed with moist smoked and braised rabbit, spruced up with jalapeño, sharp cheddar, and cilantro alongside a surprisingly subtle jalapeño crème fraîche. Now I know why wolves love those furry little thumpers!

Sharing main courses, we dined on the platter of beef tenderloin, short rib and marrow ravioli ($38). Pefectly braised, you could practically cut it with a butter knife. Competing bite-for-bite was the garlic shrimp ($28), a steaming bowl of baby and gulf shrimp swimming in a warm not vampire-killing-still-some-bite garlic cream. As if this wasn't enough, we doubled up on the spuds; with a side of potato puree with garlic and potato au gratin. Both were served in the most adorable crocks, steaming hot and scrumptious.

The finale was Rae's variations in chocolate ($12) and breakfast ($9). Variations were white chocolate mousse, mocha torte, dark chocolate and graham cracker with a chocolate tender. Breakfast was a thick piece of banana french toast, frozen yogurt, chocolate sauce and divine maple syrup.
You've already read more esteemed reviews singing the praises of Rae. There is no denying it is a great restaurant. A restaurant situated in an unwalkable, and almost undrivable, location can't just be great though, it has to be fantastic. Rae shoots past fantastic into stellar. After all, they got me to love rabbit.

Rae, Cira Centre, 2929 Arch St., Philadelphia, $$$, 215.922.3839; raerestaurant.com.