Reasons Behind High Oil Consumption and How to Prevent It

Kevin Nurmi
Slicing the mark:

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As food and water to humans, oil and fuel to machines. An equation set in the days of yore, the trouble arises when the big toy starts demanding more than its share. Agreed that car enthusiasts would go hell-bent to keep their precious jalopies happy and rumbling, but strain often eats into patience, rendering the tolerant into the most gnarling avenger, making their possession someone else's property to make it suffer as much (and more) as it made its owner. Thus, to save both from a lot of unforeseen agonies, we thought of embarking upon something beneficial; this brief composition with insights from renowned automotive forums looks deep into the reasons behind problems related to high oil consumption - the risks and the effects.

Against Guzzling:

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We don't want it! Especially when technological advancement brought us the alternatives. Most new engines available are made to glug a 500 ml carton at the most in a month and it's vital for a time when oil is not flowing in a glut. But overeating is a vice; it applies to the miles as well. A wear and oil consumption shoot-up is therefore, the consequence. But, what quantity do we say guzzling?

For a high-mileage engine, a quart of (engine) oil or engine lubricant runs for about 1,000 miles. By the time it asks for one more at half the distance on the clock, know it's the eleventh hour. Check the smoke; a blue smoke signifies the engine in a state of blue as well. But a concern to fight it away is governed by too many a factor, the budget as well as the vehicle price being inclusive. However, only three options remain:

i. Replace parts.

ii. Rebuild engine.

iii. Replace the engine.

Alongside, look out for other damages the high oil consumption is causing.

Opening Secrets:

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Valve guides and piston rings. Fresh ones have the clearance and gliding surface the way it should; too much clearance between the valve stems and guides, or worn and cracked or wrongly mounted valve guide seals shall let extra oil get sucked into the cylinders. A good compression may still be found, but at the cost of a lot of oil. To secure a better service, a replacement is suggested with the guides reamed-out and reinforced with thin bronze or cast iron guide liners. However, people often prefer Knurling - many a car forum members voiced, in which, reduced valve guide clearances are obtained by getting the guides reamed out to accept new valves with oversized stems. A low compression signifies worn or broken rings; a wear in the cylinders can also be another cause. Boring or replacing the cylinders or replacing the piston rings would solve the problem; however, it is also must to check for an improper boring, even in a newly rebuilt engine or for improperly installed rings. An incorrect TDC and BDC measurement ends the list.

Setting the Dose:

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Auto reviews sections, both online and on print, recommends using higher viscosity oils; there are also specially formulated ones with extra additives to slow oil consumption. Try to get both in one, if available. A leak has no other option than sealing to stop the loss of oil; if the valve covers, timing-covers and oil pan gaskets are oozing, a replacement is the only solution. However, it becomes a little cranky if the crankshaft end seals leak; disassembling the rear main crankshaft oil seal is a task by itself. A seal conditioner, though, can solve the problem temporarily.

  • Auto reviews sections, both online and on print, recommends using higher viscosity oils.
  • For a high-mileage engine, a quart of (engine) oil or engine lubricant runs for about 1,000 miles.
  • A low compression signifies worn or broken rings; a wear in the cylinders can also be another cause
Most new engines available are made to glug a 500 ml carton at the most in a month. But overeating is a vice; it applies to the miles as well. A wear and oil consumption shoot-up is therefore, the consequence.

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