Restaurant Review: Coach Insignia, Detroit, Michigan

The Coach Insignia Restaurant is truly a room with a view. Perched 72 floors above the city of Detroit in the main tower of the Renaissance Center, the Coach Insignia offers fine dining with spectacular 360 degree views of the Detroit Riverfront, the downtown areas of Detroit and the Windsor, Canada skyline.

Part of the Matt Prentice Restaurant Group, which includes No.Vi Chop House, Northern Lakes Seafood, and Shiraz, the Coach Insignia, or "Coach" as it is widely known, enjoyed a previous incarnation as the Summit Restaurant. In those days, the restaurant was one that revolved, and would make a full circle in about an hour. The views are still there, but the floor no longer moves.

The diner starts out the Coach experience with a ride up in one of two glass elevators which face the Detroit River and Windsor. Once safely at restaurant level, diners are led from the lounge downstairs to the main dining area. It is no exaggeration to say that there isn't a bad seat in the house. Even tables that are not window-side are close enough to enjoy the view.

The food at the Coach is fine dining all the way. Though the menu may seem limited, the preparation and presentation is unique among steak houses. Among the appetizers, the Main Lobster Corn Dog ($16) is outstanding. Not a true "corn dog" by any sense of the word, the succulent lobster tail is skewered, then dipped in a light tempura-style batter and fried. The grilled lamb loin appetizer ($12) is served with an olive tapenade, goat cheese and roasted tomatoes.

For salad selections, the Chop-Chop ($7) is a wonderful mixture of cucumber, hearts of palm, tomatoes, cooked eggs, sunflower seeds and bacon. An unusual salad to try is the Watermelon and Gorgonzola (10), which is served with roasted macadamia nuts, shaved red onion and strawberry balsamic vinaigrette.

Entrees include Kurobuta Pork Loin ($32), slow roasted chicken ($26), and rack of lamb ($45), but if you're a steak lover, this is the place to go. There are only three steak choices on the menu, a center cut filet mignon (7 or 10 ounce; $31/$41), a New York strip ($36) or 16 oz. rib eye ($34). You can "over the top" all steak choices with a small lobster tail, shrimp scampi, onions or wild mushrooms. Sides are a la carte, but are large enough to share.

Make sure you leave room for dessert. For a light dessert, try the poached pear. The crème brulee is fabulous, but if you want to be sent into a gastronomic heaven, by all means try the cheesecake. Creamy, smooth and rich, it is a dessert to die for!

In addition to the fabulous food, the Coach Insignia has a wonderful wine list. They, of course, have bottles of Fisher Vineyards' Coach Insignia wine. The Fisher families of winemakers are descendants of Lawrence Fisher, founder of Fisher Body Company and where the Coach Insignia gets its name.

The Coach Insignia, while pricy, is well worth the trip. It is a great destination restaurant for special occasions or to show off the city of Detroit to visitors.

The Coach Insignia is open Monday through Thursday from 5:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. and on Saturday from 5:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. The Coach is closed on Sundays.