Restaurant Review: Fortune China in Owings Mills, MD

There are a number of Chinese, Japanese and Thai food joints in the area, all of which have their virtues. But when you can't decide between drunken noodles and sushi, there's only one place to go. Fortune China.

Nestled in the Food Lion plaza on Lakeside Boulevard, Fortune China has an unassuming store front with a giant billboard displaying their specials. The decor of the restaurant is a cross between a formal dining room and a biker bar, with a take-out counter in the back. The best part of the layout, however, is that there are dividers to cut down on noise and to ensure privacy for large parties. If you want to actually be able to see and talk to your dinner companions on a night out on the town, Fortune China is the place for you.

The menu is large and varied. There's a respectable sushi menu, and while the specialty rolls don't compare to the quality that you'd find at nearby Edo Sushi, the fish is always fresh and well-presented. The menu also features a large Thai selection, including chicken satay with a sweet cucumber sauce. As in the case of their Japanese selections, it may not be up to the standards of the local specialty Thai restaurants, but it's close.

The best food at Fortune China is, not surprisingly, the Chinese food. In particular, the House Chow Fan is a specialty not to be missed, and if you have an adventurous side, you can order off the 'country style' menu, which caters to native Asians who frequent the restaurant.

You won't find a lot of junk Asian cuisine here. Newcomers are often startled to find that Teriyaki Chicken consists of actual grilled chicken breasts over a bed of fresh broccoli smothered in a homemade teriyaki sauce. The fried rice is not generally swimming in oil, and the chefs are always willing to serve your sauce on the side. But it's hard to eat healthy when there are so many delicious treats available. For example, Fortune China's Crab Rangoon is the best in town.

One area in which Fortune China could stand some improvement is in their attitude towards mistakes. On more than one occasion, servers have either misunderstood an order or brought out the wrong dish. Instead of offering abject apologies, I've watched the staff try to convince the patrons to enjoy what they were served instead of what they ordered. On the rare occasion that they make a mistake on a delivery order, Fortune China makes vague promises to give you something free for next time, but basically expect the customer to just suck it up. Lastly, while the food quality is almost uniformly excellent, the restaurant does need to watch the age of its beef, which they occasionally serve beyond its freshness point.

Overall, Fortune China is a worthwhile local dining excursion and seldom do guests leave without finding something to love. So if you're in the mood for Pan Asian cuisine tonight, pay them a visit!