Restaurant Review: Keanu's Island Kine Food in Vacaville, CA

The Hawaiian Islands are thousands of miles away for Vacaville, California residents. But if you've been craving a taste of good Hawaiian eats, make a trip to Keanu's.

There are several chain Hawaiian restaurants around town that seem to make do with the menu much like Taco Bell does with a taco. I've tried every one of them since I'm a sucker for slow-cooked pork and tropical feasts. Keanu's (500 Elmira Road/E-1; Vacaville, CA) goes above and beyond what they offer while making very little noise and instead focusing on putting love in the luau.

Take, for instance, the restaurant's location and décor. Keanu's comes off as that little hidden island gem away from the tourist traps. Keanu's anchors a small strip mall that T-bones against Allison Drive. The first thing you notice when you step in (besides the long lunch line) is the Hawaiian décor that doesn't go overboard with leis and bobble head dancers. There's a wonderful artist's depiction of the Hawaiian Islands as giant tropical forest leaves. Digital frames scroll the owning family's photos. Autographed surfboards and pictures of wave kings act as pillars supporting the ceiling. You ain't in Vacaville no more.

Keanu's may be little in size but its mastery of Pacific island flavor has a powerfully large reputation. They don't advertise much, using mostly word of mouth. DeeDee Ward, the owner, refers to it as "wireless" advertising. Yet people knew Keanu's well enough to vote it Vacaville's Best Hawaiian restaurant for 2009. How so? Probably the "two scoops of Aloha" served with every plate, according to the menu.

Speaking of the menu, Keanu's serves food just like your family would. Some days the food is slow; other days are a little quicker. But every day it tastes great.

The menu has some staples for the mixed plates, but there are rotating items. You can get combo plates of slow-cooked pork and cabbage, meatballs and teriyaki chicken. They also serve Ahi Poke and Musubi for those who like the truly down-home Hawaiian afternoon snacks. Friday nights are the prime nights for baby back ribs.

The slow-cooked pork, for me, is the best and most consistent meal. I've never had a combo plate here that didn't involve it. I love the extreme tenderness and flavoring that isn't over-salted like I find in other restaurants. The cabbage leaves serve as a perfect cradle to this finely shredded delicacy. I've also enjoyed the teriyaki-flavored fried shrimp. I'm not exactly sure where the Ward family finds their shrimp, but they are huge. Even the most basic shrimp and fries plate can fill up my son's bottomless stomach.

But if I had to say you absolutely order one item at Keanu's to eat, it would be the flavored shaved ice drinks.

I grew up on Pacific islands for the better part of my childhood. Most of my stateside homes have been in locations dominated by high humidity and high heat. Needless to say, I've probably consumed an Arctic glacier's worth of shaved ice in my lifetime.

Keanu's has the best. The flavors are beyond this world. With eyes closed, every sip was another instant transport to Hawaii. I swore that my coconut and pineapple shaved ice drink was made of the respective fruits picked from a hidden island where Oceanic 815 crashed. I was pretty close.

It turns out that Keanu's shaved ice flavors DO come from Hawaii. DeeDee and family have them imported from the guy who made them shaved ice drinks when they lived there. One of DeeDee's daughters said local sellers tried to get the supplier's name and address. "No way," she said.

I agree. It would take an element out of Keanu's uniqueness. And we can't afford to lose any of that.