Restaurant Review: Kolkovna in Prague, Czech Republic

To experience a little bit of the Art Nouveau in Prague, the restaurant Kolkovna, located near the Old Town Square, is the perfect place. It not only features classic décor and classic Czech cuisine, it serves what is known as tankovna Pilsner Urquell beer, which is probably the best beer in the city.

Like most Czech restaurants, Kolkovna is much larger than it appears. Just walk right through the bar, and then you'll find the dining area. More importantly, however, its interior décor is a wonderful example of the Czech Art Nouveau style as set forth by the Czech artist Alfons Mucha. It is elegant, and at the same time, very comfortable.

The quality of service has been a topic of debate. I've heard a lot of bad stories, but personally, I've never had a problem. I would never call the service top notch, but it is certainly adequate.

In regards to the Starters, I can only recommend the Fried Cheese Balls. The name doesn't translate well into English, but trust me, they're quite good. Crunchy on the outside, gooey on the inside. At 145,-kc, it's a little pricy, but given the neighborhood, it's not atypical.

The Salads are a bit pricy as well, but the Capresse Salad is quite nice with its combination of tomatoes, mozzarella, balsamic and basil. 165,-kc.

In regards to the Soups, trying the Goulash may not be a complete waste. It's not the best goulash in Prague, but at 69,-kc, it gives a visitor a decent idea of what a real Czech goulash tastes like.

There is a unique section in many Czech menus which can be translated as "Dishes with a glass of beer." And this menu at Kolkovna is quite interesting. Feel free to try the sausages. The Pickled Sausages at 75,-kc is a nice start, but if you're passing through, and you have enough courage to really go "local," I'd recommend a dish called Selection of Traditional Czech Entrees. It includes a little bit of everything, from Ham of Bone to Pickled Brie, 205,-kc. A more conservative choice is the Chef's Grilled Bread, 169,-kc, which is a sirloin on grilled bread with cheese. For something completely different, try the Scrambled Mushrooms, 159,-kc. It's hard to describe, but it contains mushrooms, egg, and bread.

Under the Czech Cuisine Menu, there are some really nice dishes at pretty good prices. The Pilsner goulash, 165,-kc, is a nice introduction to Czech cuisine. It is a traditional Czech goulash doused with Pilsner beer. One can never go wrong with Fried Cheese, 145,-kc. It is served up with potatoes and tartar sauce at Kolkovna. The Plate-Sized Pork Schnitzel, 175,-kc, is a traditional Central European dish and comes highly recommended. For those who are looking or something a bit more exotic, there is always the Rabbit in Garlic and Onion, 210,-kc. The rabbit is roasted and severed with spinach, potatoes, and bacon.

Which brings us to the beer! Kolkovna serves what is known as tankovna beer, which is unpasteurized. It is brewed at the Pilsner Uquell brewery in the Czech town of Plzen, and served from tanks on site. Pasteurization is necessary when beer has to travel or be stored for long periods of time, but it does harm the hops in beer. The unpasteurized tankovna beer comes almost directly from the brewery and is much fresher than any beer you'll get from a keg. It is served in three sizes, 0.3 for 26,-kc, a half liter for 37,-kc, and full liter is 69,-kc.

Kolkovna is located at V Kolkovne (street) 8 in Prague, Czech Republic.