Restaurant Review: Union Street Bar and Grill, Detroit, Michigan

Union Street
4145 Woodward Avenue
Detroit, MI 48201
313.831.3965

www.unionstreetdetroit.com

The Union Street Bar and Grill, located a few blocks north of the Detroit Symphony, is an urban bar and grill with a long history of providing great food and drink. Since the early 1900s, this gorgeously appointed art deco building has been the home of several businesses in many incarnations, including hardware store, Italian eatery, and the hub and launching point to Detroit party central. Union Street started out as a jazz and blues bar in the mid-1970s. Taking the name from one of San Francisco's trendiest streets, Union Street has grown into a full restaurant and catering gastronomical emporium. However, with the exception of a few framed Union Street posters, all references to San Francisco have morphed into something else. Union Street Detroit is a rowdy, loud bar that also happens to provide an excellent bar menu.

We recently stopped by on our way to the symphony, and even though we did not have reservations, were seated quickly. (I would strongly suggest reservations if you don't like a long wait after six.) By six o'clock on a Friday, the bar area is filled with the after-work crowd. Don't bother getting dressed up; Union Street has none of the fru-fru detail of more tony restaurants. This place is a working man's joint. The old-time pub atmosphere is punctuated by weathered wood floors, antique beveled glass and sleek art deco lines.

However, don't let the humble bar-and-grill appearance fool you. Union Street can dish up some of the most interesting grub found in Detroit. It's not just bar sandwiches here, folks; there is some imagination going strong back in that kitchen. There are several tantalizing soup choices, including a black Angus chili and seafood chowder. Appetizers range from the predictable hot wings, nachos and calamari, to the more sophisticated black tiger shrimp scampi and baked brie. We decided on the roasted garlic and Portobello mushroom, which comes with French goat cheese rolled in toasted almonds (tres rich and heavy), fire roasted red peppers and a balsamic vinegar reduction.

For dinner, I decided on the prime rib sandwich, a recent menu addition. My "sandwich" was served open faced on French baguettes, with a healthy dollop of garlic smashed potatoes on top, covered with gravy. There was also a side vegetable of green beans. The prime rib was too much to eat in one sitting, but it was delicious and not overdone. Likewise, the green beans had a fresh and healthy color.

My dinner guest chose an item off the specials menu, which was the beef brisket covered in a sweet and tangy barbecue sauce. His only complaint was that the brisket was fatty in spots, but it was declared delicious. The brisket was also accompanied by garlic potatoes and green beans.

I wish we would have had time for dessert, because the dessert tray circulating throughout the restaurant that night looked heavenly.

None of the entrees are over $22 (the most expensive being the filet mignon, rib-eye steak and crab-stuffed salmon), and the menu is so varied, there is literally something for everyone. The burgers are half-pounders and always a good choice. There is pasta for the carb lover and plenty of salad choices, including a taco salad, chicken salad, and antipasta. Of course, there is a full bar and a decent wine list. All major credit cards are accepted. The one downside is that the restaurant is frequently smoky, and there is no non-smoking section.

Union Street can host any sized party, or provide catering off site. They are also open for Sunday Brunch.

To find out more information, visit their web site at www.unionstreetdetroit.com.