Review of Best-value, Richly Flavored Australian Cabernet Sauvignon: Mollydooker Maitre D'

By way of background: Over time, the Mollydooker line has been one of my highest rated lines from Australia, mostly based on the strength of their shiraz. Here, we are giving the Mollydooker cabernet sauvignon a try.

Initial review :This is Mollydooker The Maitre D' Cabernet Sauvignon, South Australia, 2008, finished at 15.% alcohol, a fairly typical Mollydooker chart-topping alcohol level. I've tried past vintages of 2005 and 2006 previously, rating both quite high.

In the glass: Deep burgundy with a purple rim, opaque from about a quarter inch in from the edge.

On the nose: Poured at room temperature and swirled vigorously, shows a bold, creamy, slightly menthol fruit nose with smooth oak underlying the thick fruit layers. From the aroma, seems like this will be rich, round, mouth-filling, in fact, mouth-staining.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact bright, rich and deep red berries in the front of your mouth. A surprisingly "smaller" red berry feel than I anticipated. They are carried along by layers of plum and red ink. The sip glides gracefully - but still forcefully - to the rear of your mouth, thenlodging in your cheeks with the alcohol lift. The finish is persistent, sturdy, berry-laced and distinctly sweet, though there is no cloying sugar at the finish. Instead, the sip slowly tapers after almost two minutes to a slight pucker that is tucked somewhere between your cheek and the roof of your mouth.

In summary: Overall, rates four stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, because, unless I was facing an entire tasting flight of Mollydooker or DeLille wines, I probably would not see the point of varying from this wine for a given evening. Best value if you purchase this one well.

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