Review: City Grange Restaurant in Philadelphia, PA

I'm no fan of hotel food. Having worked in a hotel restaurant, I know what goes on there, and it ain't pretty. Tell me that I'm about to chow down at a hotel restaurant, no matter how stellar the hotel, and I'll schedule a Maalox moment later in the evening.

City Grange is the new homespun twist on hotel dining that recently opened in Philly's Westin Hotel. The food is "farm-forward', a menu of comfort classics made with free-range, hormone void, fresh, local ingredients. This means most of the food is being shipped down the Turnpike from Lancaster County. If you can't trust the Amish, who the heck can you trust?

Now, the idea of a rural restaurant in the Westin sounds a bit schizophrenic. Upscale Westin merged with hick town free-grange? I was prepared to hate the décor. But the designers went with an upscale, warm-wood interior with just a dash of farm-fancy and urban posh to placate everyone.

We started with a warm cup of the Lancaster County Chicken Noodle soup ($6); stewed with free-range chicken and all natural egg noodles. I have absolutely no concept of what a free-grange chicken is, and frankly I don't care either. They are tasty, and should be dropped into all pots of soup from now on. Our date dubbed his starter "the perfect salad": baby lettuce, beefsteak tomato, cucumbers, walnuts and a smattering of champagne vinaigrette and blue cheese ($9).
Following these two fantastic pre-courses, we split the expertly-cooked and classic filet; Meyer ranch all natural beef in red wine mushroom demy glace ($30). Making pigs ourselves, we carb loaded with an order of the macaroni & cheese ($6), and scalloped potatoes ($6). The mac & cheese featured 4 of our favorite dairy products: Aged cheddar, farm cheddar, good old colby, and the always-sharp herb jack. The scalloped potatoes were just as cheesy, with appearances by some sharp aged Gouda and our old pal, aged cheddar.

Saving the best side for last, we have to award the gold-grange star to the low country corn fritters. Baked, crispy and served with a slather of maple syrup & goat cheese dressing, these little morsels had us licking our fingers.

City Grange, like any hotel restaurant, serves up breakfast, lunch, and dinner. We assume from our stellar meal that you probably can't miss with those options either. We peeked at the breakfast menu and saw some hotcakes selections that have us a mighty bit curious. While the food is not the most calorie conscious, or waistline-friendly, it is delicious. Plus, it's free-range, hormone free, fresh and local; all things that seem to mean so much to those cute little vegan kids who hang out in front of the U Arts Dorm next to me.

City Grange, Westin Hotel, 99 S. 17th St, 215-575-6930, citygrange.com.