Review of Philadelphia's Marigold Kitchen

Stepping outside the boundaries of the gayborhood, my companion and I took the transfer trolley to 45th and Baltimore to find one of the most secretive and beautifully surrounded restaurants in University City. Before Marigold Kitchen opened in 2004, it serviced customers as Marigold Tea Room when it opened in 1934. History is evident inside the restaurant; a corner fireplace, aged staircase and a piped ventilation system provide great conversation pieces.

Marigold is a BYOB, but we wanted a sober night, so the hostess offered us Acqua Panna. A few minutes later, a gorgeous (but married) man introduces himself as our "personal cook" for the night, Executive Chef Michael Solomonov. Born in G'nei Yehudah, Israel and raised in Pittsburgh, Chef Solomonov is a two-time James Beard dinner host and was a former sous chef at Philly's nationally-acclaimed Vetri. Marigold Kitchen is Michael's baby for creation and innovation.

Among our favorites of the mini-plates Chef Solomonov served were the tuna carpaccio with tabouleh ($12) and the malauch with Israeli salad. With the first bite, we could definitely feel the love poured into the food. The fresh greens in the tabouleh complemented the taste and texture of the tuna, and the anchovies in the Israeli salad weren't fishy at all! Next, we had Marigold's signature dish, the sweetbreads with crispy chicken skin and tehina ($13) and the potato gnocchi with Roquefort and tomato ($22). I wanted to cry with elation over the sweetbreads; succulent and fried, thymus gland never tasted so awesome! The tehina was a bit strong on its own but was a great dipping sauce. Potato gnocchi was super light and fluffy and I could def eat it in gallons. If you're a seafood fiend, definitely order the seared scallops with mussel vinaigrette ($26) or the olive oil-poached salmon ($25). The scallops were plated with a cauliflower mousse to create a perfect union and the poached salmon came with caramelized pumpkin and balsamic beets. Aren't you salivating yet?

We're carnivores so we especially liked the chicken breast stuffed with duck liver with apples and bacon ($26) and the Za'atar-crusted leg of lamb ($26). I never had lamb before (I was a Sheri Lewis and Lamp Chop kid) but it's definitely my new meat of choice. Next, we had the artisinal cheeses ($9/15), a variety of Swiss, British, French, and Israeli cheeses that were methodically paired with purees and arranged from mild to sharp. A very acquired sampling but decadent nonetheless! After the strong cheeses, we had dessert (all listed at $7), my favorite part of any meal. The "Peach, peach, peach" was a sorbet with a star-shaped foam! Scrumptiously gorgeous. Next were the generous portions of konafi with chocolate, pistachio and kumquat and the lemon tart with lemon curd and meringue sorbet. The konafi (shredded and fried phyllo dough) is the cure for any girl's Aunt Flo and the lemon tart is pretty orgasmic. We stopped being ladies and let our stuffed bellies breathe.

Marigold Kitchen is the perfect place for casual or upscale dining. All the tables are candlelit, and the art hanging on the walls make the lime walls pop even more. Make the trip past the rainbow street signs to this camouflaged treasure. My reasons for definitely going back to MK? The delectable menu, courteous staff, close-by 40th Street shopping, and the really hot executive chef.

Marigold Kitchen, 501 S. 45th St, 215-222-3699, marigoldkitchenbyob.com, $$.