Ride the Rapids: Whitewater Rafting in Idaho

If you have any whitewater rafting experience or knowledge at all, you've no doubt heard of Idaho's Big Four: The Middle Fork of the Salmon, the Main Salmon, the Hells Canyon run of the Snake and the ultra-pristine Selway.

They're everything that's advertised, and any opportunity to take a guided trip or self-guided journey on one of these spectacular rivers shouldn't be passed up. Alas, chances are a guided trip will cost more than $1,000, and as the popularity of these rivers grows, the chances of landing a coveted permit have become ever so remote.

Toughest of all is the Selway of northeast Idaho, an upside-down L-shaped journey through pine, spruce and cedar forests on some of the purest water in the Lower 48. Only one launch a day is allowed, and the summer window for running the Selway - Nez Perce for, ironically, "Placid Waters" is skinny.

The Snake and Salmon are a bit easier, but with seven launches a day on each it's only slightly better than winning $100 in the lottery.

Best advice: Call every day for cancellations, or …

Try one of Idaho's numerous other whitewater floats, which are cheaper and don't require winning the lottery.

For a spectacular overnight float, pick up where the Main Salmon floaters leave off: At Riggins, Idaho. This four- to five-day journey cuts an arid canyon on its journey to confluence of the Snake River at the mouth of Hells Canyon. It's big and warm water, with lots of Class III rollers. Only a handful of rapids require scouting, and only one might be deemed technical. The takeout is just south of Asotin, Washington.

For the most fun, do a series of one-day floats. Here's an itinerary, all within a three hours of Boise:

Day 1: Main Payette. A splash-and-giggle, pool-and-drop float with regularly spaced Class III rapids. A flip here is merely a refreshing swim. Easily accessed on Idaho Highway 55, and a great place to get those rowing strokes tuned up.

Day 2: South Fork of the Payette, Staircase stretch. Also easily accessed on the Banks-to-Lowman Highway, this is a more technical Class III run, with the signature rapid, Class IV staircase, easily scouted from the highway.

Day 3: South Fork of the Payette, Canyon run: More technical, more rapids and a mandatory portage at Big Falls. Do-it-yourselfers should know what they're doing on these Class III and Class IV drops. Any hubris will be tempered by the cross on a rock above Blackadar Rapids, named for the famous Salmon doctor and whitewater pioneer who drowned there. A thrilling run that'll keep your attention.

Day 4: South Fork of the Boise: This 17-mile stretch has only two Class III rapids, but after a meandering start, the pace picks up and almost never lets up once you enter the sheer canyon walls of the Idaho batholith. The canyon is so narrow that sun only reaches the river for about six hours even during the longest summer days. A scorching mid-day can turn chilly with the 48-degree waters, and care must be taken against hypothermia. However, there's a bonus to that cool water: Blue-ribbon rainbow trout fishing. And because there's no access to the river in those 17 miles, you've got them all to yourself.

Day 5: North Fork of the Payette, Cabarton run: Back up Idaho 55, this brisk Class III jaunt is known for its classic mountain scenery. The river leaves the highway and cuts through a pine forest where osprey, eagles and other wildlife are common. This is also a fine trout fishery. The rapids are exhilarating but not dangerous.

Day 6: North Fork of the Payette: OK, strap it on here. Experts only on this roiling, rocky Class IV-V stretch where it's rare to see any water that isn't frothy. Construction of Highway 55 on one side and a railroad on the other conspired to create this kayaker's nirvana. But again,experts only. One mistake here could mean the ultimate price. On the other hand, you'll have plenty of spectators watching from the highway. And if you complete this stretch, you're in rarified company.

Day 7: Salmon River, north of Stanley: Another brisk Class III run, just to wind down after a busy week, sort of like ratcheting down the treadmill. It's mostly for the scenery, and just to be able to say you floated The River of No Return not far from its headwaters.

Now you're ready for another classic challenge: Southeast Idaho's Owyhee River, which carves forbidding canyons through the most remote portion of the Lower 48. You have to be ready at virtually a moment's notice on the Owyhee, because the April window can be as scant as a week or so. Oh, and the signature rapid's name tells you everything you need to know about this river: Widowmaker. Once you get over that psychological hurdle, you'll savor the wildest overnight river trip Idaho has to offer without having to win the lottery.