Rio Dulce, a Pirate's Delight

Two hundred plus kilometers northeast of Guatemala City or inland from the Caribbean side of Guatemala, past the ancient Spanish fortress of the Castillo de San Felipe de Lara, lies the sleepy palm-fringed port of Rio Dulce.

Sir Francis Drake, he of pirate legend used to cruise this far, looking for booty and a few days of R&R(rape and ruin). The Spanish galleons would sail this far inland, looking for shelter and a place to careen their ships. From the early 1500's through the 1700's, Lake Izabal was the backdoor into Guatemala, for freight and passengers.

Today, the bridge that connects El Relleno (not chile) and Fronteras overlooks Lake Izabal to the south and downriver to Livingston. Outside of Rio Dulce(sweet river in espanol) if you want to go anywhere, up or downstream, you're taking a water taxi.

I wanted to sample Mexican food at the new restaurant but that involved a water taxi... Bruno's Hotel, Marina and Watering Hole was where I stayed and the steaks were excellent. What looked to be a large chunk of barely chewable beef turned out to be tender and succulent. Brunos...a decent hotel right under the massive bridge, and a morning kaffeklatch central for every old gray gringo on the waterfront.

Amidst a few newer sailboats were more than a handful of older boats of indeterminate age: an aging cabin cruiser with green algae and moss attacking the hull, the once-elegant lines of a sloop, now covered in plastic tarps and rust streaks along her wooden flanks.

This is the elephant's graveyard for men and boats. Time hasn't treated either one of them well. What gray hair still remains is now in ponytails and their t-shirts proclaim faded victories. The sails are and tattered and rust is everywhere. It is hot, humid and languid, as is the service at Brunos. Don't bother wearing a watch.