Saguaro National Park in Arizona

Standing silent vigil over Arizona's Sonora Desert, the monolithic saguaro cactus seems to capture the spirit of the Southwest-strong enough to weather relentless sandstorms unblinkingly, silent and tall in the saddle. It's the kind of strength that many of the settlers who came to the Southwest also shared, tirelessly working the heat to scratch a living from the arid desert.

Some saguaros live for more than 150 years, making it possible marauding Apache bands rode underneath the same huge arms you see today. Growing as tall as 50 feet, weighing up to 8 tons, and swelling with each rain in an effort to hoard the rarest of all desert commodities-water-the monumental desert dwellers are a sight to behold.

Saguaro National Park, found on the outskirts of Tucson, Arizona, is one of the largest saguaro cactus concentrations in North America. More than 3 million people a year visit the site annually, but its vast expanse makes crowds a rarity.

East of the city, 67,000 acres are encompassed in the Rincon Mountain Unit of the park. To the west, 24,000 acres are found in the Tucson Mountain Unit. Both units feature scenic drives through this unusual saguaro forest, interpretive exhibits, hiking trails and visitors centers.

In 1976 the cactus' critical habitat was protected in the Rincon Mountain Unit when 57,930 acres were designated the Saguaro Wilderness Area. Today, some of the most untouched regions of the true Sonora Desert are still found there and in the adjoining Rincon Mountain Wilderness Area, which encompasses an additional 38,590 acres.

Since 1933 Saguaro National Park has protected southern Arizona's silent giants, or as others might call it, prickly menace. That's probably what the hang-gliding enthusiast thought just before meeting his maker as he sailed into one or the lawbreaker who died after shotgunning another until it fell on him. Saguaros are spectacular sights, best enjoyed by camera, unless you're a Native American and allowed to make jelly from its summertime fruit as it ripens. They are protected in Arizona, but if you arrive in the spring when the limbs are covered in rich, white flowers the pictures you take will be as spectacular as the memories.

There are more than 165 miles of hiking trails in both areas of the park. They range from long hikes that reach six different established campgrounds in the Rincons to shorter strolls on interpretive trails in the west.

Of course saguaros aren't all you'll see. Cholla, prickly pear and barrel cactus are abundant throughout the park, as are palo verde and mesquite trees. Add javelina, mountain lions, mule deer, hawks, packrats and coyotes and it's little wonder this little-known national park is such a popular attraction.

One of my favorite trails is on the east side of Tucson. Simply drive east on Speedway until the road dead ends to find the trailhead. Its gains elevation fast, but if you take your time and arrive during the right time of year it doesn't really matter how far you make it, the scenery is spectacular.

In the spring nearly all of the cactus will be in bloom. Because the trail isn't a tourist trap crowds are always sparse, and it winds through some massive saguaros. Be sure to take a flashlight and wait for the sun to set--you'll get to see it go down over Tucson. Bring a snack, find a lofty west-facing perch and wait for dusk. Expect to hear the serenade of plenty of coyotes as the light goes away though-the area is home to a huge population of them. Most of the trail is on the Coronado National Forest, but in many of its areas you're afforded views of Saguaro National Park you'll see nowhere else.

To get to the West Unit from Tucson, drive west on Speedway, over Gates Pass. Then turn right onto Kinney Road and follow the signs. There is no admission to the West Unit.

The East Unit is reached by taking 22nd Street east, and turning south on Old Spanish Trail. Follow the signs, and admission is only $4 a carload.

Both units are open from sunrise to sunset, though visitor's centers operate from 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. For more information call (520) 733-5158 for the West Unit or (520) 733-5153 for the East Unit.

Come prepared. During the summertime you can expect highs to reach more than 100 degrees. Winter, fall and spring are usually comfortable at 60 to 70, though nighttime temperatures can drop to freezing.

It's all part of that Western experience though. Who'd want it any other way, when visiting one of the West's true icons-Arizona's majestic saguaro forest in Saguaro National Park.