San Luis Potosi's Magnificent Architecture

The Plaza de Armas is ringed by shops, both big and small, some eateries, and of course, the magnificently grandiose La Catedral. The most exciting thing I found was a shoe store that had New Balance shoes in my size! I had been hunting for these in Guanajuato, the land of little-footed men, but the stores were found lacking. San Luis Potosi had the shoe I wanted and in my size, which gave me no end of merriment. To Guanajuato's credit, since returning from our trip, there are now stores that stock these shoes in the size I have to wear in the new mall; the mall I hated when it was built, but now adore. (I have to tell you that as my work of penance.)

The entire plaza is stacked with architecturally significant buildings. La Catedral was built between 1660 and 1730. The equally magnificent Palacio de Gobierno was completed in 1816. The wealth of colonial architecture in this city is beyond imagination and yet it is probably one of the least known of the colonial cities in the Mexican highlands.

La Catedral is almost beyond my ability to describe. I thought I had been in some cool churches but this one was beyond anything I had seen before. Its magnitude is overwhelming. The first comment that came gushing out of my wife's awestruck mouth was that it rivaled some of the European churches she's visited. The place was in impeccable condition. There was not a spot of dust, no torn or warped paintings, and no peeling paint on the walls or ceilings-nothing! It was a crystal clean, perfectly awesome church that shone in brilliant gold on the many parishioners who were praying in the sanctuary.

The inside of the church seemed too valuable not to have the army in there guarding it. Everything, including the bases of some small pillars, seemed to have gold hammered on in small golden strips. The gold was not painted on, as is the case in many churches. Can you imagine the worth? And yet, there didn't seem anyone in there trying to pry off the gold strips or walk out the door with anything other than themselves, which makes me feel a bit better about the Mexicans in this town appreciating this wonderful example-this church-of their religion and cultural heritage. I did not see one piece of graffiti on the church's outside wall.

What was rampant in the church was panhandling. I do not mean the begging that those in genuine need do as they sit outside the doors of the church, all crippled with their poor twisted bodies so deformed you know someone had to carry them to the church's doors. I will give to them freely. I mean those who walk up and down the aisles who look very able-bodied. I am talking about those who disturb your thoughts as you are admiring the church, scribbling down a few notes, and, God forbid, you might be so taken in by the majesty of the church, that you might even be doing what you are supposed to do in a church-praying!

They will walk right up to you and it never does any good to ignore them. They will lay hands on you to shake you out of your reverie, and began a well-practiced song and dance, the same one I've heard all over Mexico. They must put out a manual or perhaps send out a newsletter with the newest routines so all the panhandlers are on the same page in their pitch. I think it could a kind of Beggar's Union. It always involves some sort of catastrophic disaster that wiped out their entire village with only the beggar left standing. The beggars want you to contribute to rebuilding the village as well as give them some money to fund a serious operation their mother needs to have. This is the same story you hear all over this country. How do they all come up with the same panhandling stories?

This time, I actually heard something different. Some young men tapped me on my shoulder while the wife and I were ahhhing over something in the church. They wanted us to send five of them to some sort of vocational school in Guadalajara by forking over our money (yeah, right). That, I have to tell you, was a brand new one for the books! I sent them flying with a wave of my hand and a menacing snarl (not really but I felt like it!).

They must all go to a University for Panhandlers and take courses.

On the way back to the hotel, we stopped at a little Abarrotes (a very small grocery store) and got supplies for our eating needs. This really helps save your travel budget. In Mexico, you can swing by a panaderia (bakery) and pick up some muffins while you are out. This also, trust me when I tell you this, not only saves money but also keeps the war in our intestines at bay, something that always seems to ensue when we are running around the country.

Here's a tip: When traveling in Mexico, do not eat meat products, no matter how well cooked they look and smell, in the street kiosks. You will thank me for this advice.