San Xavier Del Bac: White Dove of the Desert in Southern Arizona

For more than 300 years San Xavier del Bac Mission, the White Dove of the Desert, has stood lonely vigil over Southern Arizona. It has outlived communism, entire empires and economic systems. Its walls have witnessed Indian wars, suffered neglect through World Wars and even thrived in temporary abandonment.

It has watched as civilization grew up all around it. It's seen things we can only study or dream of, and I can't imagine a better place to reflect on the future, than at San Xavier del Bac.

Founded in 1692 near a Pima Indian village, by Father Eusebio Francisco Kino, a Jesuit priest, today it's found 1 1/2 miles west of I-19, just south of Tucson.

About the time the United States declared its independence, Jesuit priests were banned from all Spanish lands, including southern Arizona. Franciscans took over the mission, and the current structure was built near Father Kino's original site by the order in 1783. A 7,000-peso loan underwrote the ambitious project.

Some speculate the east tower was left unfinished to avoid paying taxes. Others claim the priests simply ran out of money. A much more romantic notion is that no one would ascend the tower after a worker fell and died.

No one knows for sure.

No one even knows who the architect or builder was. All that seems for certain is that at least three artists were employed painting the Mission's breathtaking interior, and that Pedro Bojorquez inscribed his name, along with the date, 1797, on the Mission's door. He may have been the door's carpenter, the builder or architect. We'll never know for sure.

From 1828 to 1858 the Mission was effectively abandoned, thanks in part to a government demand that all Spanish priests in Mexican territory declare loyalty to Mexico. The priests left rather than betray Spain. During this period, a number of local Indians became concerned about the mission's meager furnishings. Some even resorted to taking them home to prevent theft and vandalism.

When the Gadsden Purchase of 1859 added the mission to the Diocese of Santa Fe, it wasn't long until a priest was assigned. Repairs were soon made to the then rapidly decaying mission, and morning mass resumed in Southern Arizona.

Today the mission stands much as it did hundreds of years ago. Sure there are phone lines, the street has been paved, and cars clutter the parking lot instead of horses or buggies.

Yet, somehow it's comforting to know something as seemingly simple as a hand-made, adobe-walled mission can survive the test of time. Man may be fleeting, but a few of his accomplishments will serve testimony to his perseverance and dedication.

It's stark simplicity. It's whitewashed walls still echo hundreds of stories, offering lessons only those wise enough to listen can hear, away from civilization's din.

If you visit southern Arizona, be sure to pay San Xavier del Bac a visit. You'll be glad you did.