Secrets to Making a Perfect French Knot

The elusive and infamous French knot; rarely has something so simple lent such elegance to most everything it graces. Also known as a Granny's bun, or twisted knot stitch and predecessor to the colonial knot; the French knot is beloved by needleartists and needleart consumers, alike. Just a simple twist of the thread, and yet, it's perfection remains right outside your grasp. This article gives tips to those who've attempted a French knot in the past but don't understand where they've failed. I was in this group at one time myself, but through practice and study, have now composed this list of "musts" to help guide you in making the perfect French knot. And know, all are easy techniques to adopt, as well as, all are born out of small oversights. Once, you (too), know the secrets to making French knots, you'll be making them in your sleep. So, browse the checklist, watch the video on Youtube, then tell me, what's your mistake?

Procedure
Bring your knotted thread to the front of the fabric. (Some find it easier to place the hoop on the working surface here), then with the needle in your right hand and holding taut (not tight) the working thread in your left hand, at approximately two inches from where the thread exits the fabric;

1. Move your left hand to an 8:00 position.
2. Wrap the thread* once or twice around the needle in a counter clockwise fashion (see first image above). This would be the same as wrapping the thread going towards your right hand.
3. Insert the needle about half its length, back into the fabric, one or two threads away from where the thread was brought to the front of the fabric.
4. With your left hand still the holding the thread taut, maneuver the wraps down (by shimmying the thread down on the needle) so the wrap(s) "sit" next to the fabric.
5. Then finish by pulling the needle and thread through the fabric...steadily...maintaining your hold on the thread with your left hand, until the working thread is pulled from your grip.

* Clockwise or counter clockwise? I was taught a true French knot is wrapped in a counter clockwise fashion. I have seen other experts make their wraps in a clockwise fashion, and it does yield a slightly different result. Clockwise wraps form a knot that's more triangular in shape and sits "tall' above the fabric; counterclockwise wraps sit more square on the fabric and look like the granny's bun in the above illustration. Thus, the direction of the wrap is more a matter of preference. Counterclockwise is my choice and preference.

So you're having trouble making a French knot? Below, may be some of the reasons why.

• Are you using an embroidery hoop? An embroidery hoop is a must if you haven't been using one. Surprisingly there are many newbies and not-so-newbies that will attempt making a French knot without using an embroidery hoop. You're assured more success if the ground fabric is held tight.
• Make sure when holding the thread in your left hand to grab it about two inches out from the fabric. Why two inches? Two inches is an ideal point at which to hold the thread; one inch and you're way to close to execute the stitch properly, and, at three inches you're too far away to control it.
• Before making the wraps move the working thread to about an 8:00 position for ease of execution.
• Try making only one wrap of the thread. One wrap makes the knot easier to form. Plus, vintage books instruct the French knot with only one wrap. It's better to learn to make the stitch correctly, first, then move on to other variations.
• Where the needle is reinserted into the fabric is very important! Reinsert the needle one to two threads (or about 1/32 of an inch for finely woven fabric) from where the thread was brought to the front of the fabric. Too far away and the stitch will lay down and look like a drizzle stitch; in the same hole where the thread comes out-and the knot will unravel. This part is almost fool-proof; reinsert as close as possible, just not in the same hole where the thread is coming out.
  
• Maintain your hold on the working thread until the formation of the stitch pulls the thread from your grip. And, remember...hold the thread taut throughout!
• Are you using the best needle for the job? A milliner's (straw) needle is best says Mary Corbett of Needle 'N Thread¹. Or, another choice can be a between needle². Here's why an milliner's needle may be best...A milliner's needle is designed for French knots, bullion knots, drizzle stitch or cast on stitches; any stitch that is formed by wraps around the needle. Most embroidery needles have an enlarged eye that bulges out from the shaft. A milliner's needle has a streamlined eye and elongated shaft and is the same diameter at both the needle and shaft (hence the name straw). So when forming a wrap or knot stitch, the thread and eye of the needle pass through the fabric easily. Just as important; the wraps of the thread remain true throughout, because, there's no bulge of the needle eye to distort them. What you stand to gain in using the proper needle is ease in making the knot, as well as a well-formed knot, both equally important advantages that cannot afford to be overlooked when you've had difficulty in the past. As for between needles, they are best suited for quick, accurate execution of most any stitch.

1. Mary Corbett says, "[A milliner's] needle eliminates the thread becoming hung up between the wraps and fabric as the needle is being pulled through." You can start with a #11 milliner's needle, which is the smallest size, and then graduate to a #10 or #9, if necessary. Whereas,
2. Ellen Moore Johnson, author of the Embroidered Home recommends a #7 betweeen needle. Here's her advice, "...betweens have a small round eye and a sharp point. Their small size is very good for rendering short stitches quickly and accurately..."

Other Helpful Tips...

• When purchasing needles, an assorment of sizes pack might be best until you can determine the size that's right for you.
• The Valley Quail chapter of the Embroiderer's Guild of America sells the Needle Index, which instructs which needles to use with particular threads and techniques. It also organizes, stores and helps identify needles in true-to-size images.

So tell me, what's your experience with French knots? Do you use an all-purpose needle for every task? Has this article helped you? If you decide on the Needle Index, (or not) please comment and let me know how you like it. I'd love to hear from you!