See More of Shannon, Ireland for Less

Get started on an exciting Irish adventure by booking a flight to Shannon Airport (SNN) on sidestep.com. Tickets from NYC are running from $300 - $500 this summer. Rent a car at the airport since Irish ruins are almost always best discovered by driving through the countryside. Car rental will be €250 to €300 for a week during the summer and remember that the Irish drive on the left side of the road. Many of the roads in this guide will be narrow country roads and often lined with stone walls instead of shoulder. All the more reason to rent the smallest car that will fit the luggage. The distance between towns is relatively short so take it slow and enjoy the scenery.

Alternatively, many of the towns in this guide are served by Bus Eireann where a ten journey/seven day ticket can be had online for under €50. This may limit some of the things to be seen, but will save money and still provide for some great experiences. The west coast between Liscannor and Ballyvaughan also has a number of walking trails between the villages.

The first stop, in the village of Quin, is about 20 km from the airport. Quin Abbey, completed in the 15th century, is open to visitors free of charge from early May until late September on every day but Tuesday. The Abbey was built by the MacNamara clan for Franciscan monks. The site was originally a monastery built in the 13th century, later ruined and rebuilt as a Norman castle. The towers of the castle can still be seen as the remains of the castle were incorporated into the Abbey. This property lies on a major route between Limerick and Galway and has changed hands many times, leading to several restorations over the centuries and a rich history.

The Abbey Tavern is located nearby and is a good place to stop for refreshment, as is Monks' Well, while the village is a good place to spend the rest of the morning exploring. If you have extra time and money, Knappogue Castle is located a few miles down the road beyond Quin. This 15th century castle was also built by the MacNamara clan, served as headquarters for the East Clare Brigade during the war for independence and currently hosts a well reviewed medieval feast for about €50 (reservations required).

Plan to arrive in Ennis, 10 km from Quin, by midafternoon. The Forest View B&B, located on the R469 just off the N18 on the way between Quin and Ennis, will host two adults for €60 for the night and provide breakfast in the morning. The Rowan Tree Hostel, located in downtown Ennis, is a better deal at €20/person if dorm accomodations are acceptable. They also offer free internet access. Turn right off R469 when arriving from Quin.

The de Valera library has free internet access and a small museum and gallery featuring a door from a galleon salvaged from the Spanish Armada, which sank off the Clare coast in 1588. Having a sense of humor, or perhaps schadenfreude, the Irish named the place Spanish Point. The Cathedral of Saints Peter & Paul is located at the end of O'Connell Street. There is an ancient Dominican Friary in Ennis and St Columba's from the 17th century also. Don't miss the sculpture trail, beginning at Mill Road, next door to the tennis club. When following this route, which includes a walk along the river Fergus, most of the town can be seen along with many mysterious, humorous and quaint works of art.

For shopping, try Market Street which is off the main drag and less crowded. Don't miss the Glor Center for Irish Music or Brandon's Bar around the corner from the Hostel. Full of character, still featuring Saturday morning markets, Ennis is a town that displays a long history, being founded in the 13th century, while embracing modern technology and Irish culture.

Late the next morning, head west out of Ennis on the N85 heading toward Lahinch. On the way, the town of Inagh features the Biddy Early Brewery for a midday pint break, but beware, "If you stop in Inagh for one drink, you will stay for the day".

The afternoon stop in Ennistymon has fun shops and a footpath along the river with a beautiful cascade over the rocks. A narrow street near the bridge over the river will take you to the oldest section of the village. There is also a market here once a week. Look for the 'An Gorta Mor' Memorial just outside Ennistymon on the north side of the N67 road to Lahinch commemorating the victims of the potato crop failures of 1845 to 1850.

Once past the memorial, continue toward Lahinch, which is the next and final stop for the day. Lahinch is a coastal town at the mercy of the sea. Alternately graced with pleasant beach breezes and gales that whip waves over the waterfront walk, Lahinch lives for surfing and golf. For dorm accomodations under €20, book a room for the night at the Lahinch Hostel. The Castleview Lodge, on the left arriving in Lahinch, has private rooms for €30 per person.

The variety of attractions here include a mile of Atlantic beach and a rocky coast with tidepools, surf lessons and rentals, kitesurfing, windsurfing, a Seaworld aquarium, and well known golf courses. There is a well preserved earthen fort on the hill above the village on the road to Ennistymon. Dough Castle, to the north on the road to Liscannor, was built by the O'Connors in the early 14th century. The original name translates to O'Connor's Sandbank as it was built on the dunes, which explains some of the cause of ruin. The present ruins date from a later period after the O'Briens had taken over.

For years Lahinch has been a popular holiday spot in the summer, especially on Irish Bank Holidays, and has many pubs, shops and restaurants. Try the seafood and head to whichever pub has music that you fancy. There is an ATM in town if cash is needed. These are scarce on this stretch of coast, so plan ahead. Finally, enjoy the Atlantic sunset on the waterfront promenade.

For those traveling this route by bus the 'Burren Way', a 26 mile signposted walking trail between Lahinch and Ballyvaughan, is a scenic option to spotty bus service on the west coast. The route travels from Lahinch, along the Cliffs of Moher, through Doolin and Ballinalacken, continuing along Green Roads across the Burren to Ballyvaughan. This is the recommended way to experience as much as possible without a car.

This area is also is a good place to spend an extra day, exploring the inland towns to the east, such as Lisdoonvarna with its natural spa and traditional music, or Kilfenora with famous 9th and 10th century celtic crosses, ceili and step dancing, The Burren Center, and Leamaneh Castle.

In the morning, head north on the coastal R478 to Liscannor, making sure to stop at Dough Castle and the Church of St. MacCreiche, an early twelfth-century church on the shore. This town is just 4km from the Cliffs of Moher, a five mile stretch of cliff rising up to 700 ft directly from the Atlantic and populated with an immense variety of birds. Take care with the updrafts and the unstable edge if you have to get close and look over. I took a picture straight down by lying on my stomach and it was like nothing I've ever done before or since.

Ballynalacken Castle is a 15th century O'Brien stronghold that is located a short ways from town toward the cliffs. On the road beside the cemetery there is a spire commemorating a 19th century politician and landlord, Cornelius O'Brien, and in front an enclosed holy well named after Saint Bridget. People visit St. Bridget's well for its curative properties; circling it saying decades of a rosary. A wealth of religious objects have collected there over the years, such as images of the Virgin Mary or Rosary beads hung on the wall.

Other activities in Liscannor include Moher Hill open farm and park and a rock shop with historical quarrying demonstrations, a collection of tools, and photographs of the town centuries ago. Liscannor is known for its stone, which paves much of the town.

Onward to Doolin, a fishing village made famous this past century as a haven for traditional Irish music. Stop into McDermott's for a pint to hear music even during the day. Another extra excursion is the ferry to the Aran islands leaving from the pier in Doolin. Snorkling and diving are popular here as is caving. Don't miss Doonmacfelim Castle, which while ruined is still impressive.

The afternoon stop is in Fanore, which boasts beaches, dunes, and a river with a hiking trail to explore. Surfing equipment can be rented here and fishing is also popular among the coastal rocks. Ailladie or The Blind Man's Cliff is a limestone sea cliff with an opportunity for rock climbing. There are many Celtic ring forts or cahers in this area. Cathair Dhúin Irghuis is a notable one to visit as it sits atop Black Head and holds a commanding view of Galway Bay, Connemara, and the Clare coast. From Fanore, drive north to the lighthouse, keeping an eye out for a wall going all the way up Black Head, about a half mile before the lighthouse. Follow the wall and you will come to the fort. Enjoy the view, this is another place to enjoy a sunset before heading to Ballyvaughan for the night.

Ballyvaughan is a charming village on the south side of Galway bay. There are many pubs, craft shops, restaurants, and even a supermarket. Visit a pub, such as Monk's, in the evening for seafood and a pint, while mixing with the locals and tourists from all over Europe. The best place to stay in the village is the Hylands Burren Hotel, with a double room for €80. If this is too expensive, there is a Sleepzone hostel a few miles south in Lisdoonvarna. Both of these will be best with reservations as they are limited.

Try a steaming Irish coffee in one of the pubs on the waterfront in the morning before a day full of siteseeing and you won't regret it. There is bike hire and diving for exploring the amazing natural surroundings. I took a bike west down the coast road out of town (the one you arrived on last night) and came upon ruined sunken houses, a tower, stone walled fields with sheep reaching down to the bay and other greatly enjoyable (and free) sights.

The car rental is a good way to reach places a bit farther out, such as Ailwee Caves, south of the village on R480, or Corkscrew Hill. To reach the hill take the N67 road that runs between Ballyvaughan and Lisdoonvarna. Four miles south on this road there is a look out point high up on the hill that overlooks Ballyvaughan and Galway Bay.

Heading east out of Ballyvaughan along the coast, stop at Corcomroe Abbey or Saint Mary of the Fertile Rock. Founded in the 12th century by an Irish king for Cistercian monks, it is surrounded by green fields and limestone hills. This can be found just off N67 on the south side of the highway a couple miles outside the village. If the mood for chowder and a pint strikes, stop at Linnane's Lobster Bar in Newquay, just past the Abbey on N67. The Burren Perfumery, with a philosophy of creating scented products inspired by the landscape and environment that surrounds it, provides another possible sidetrip on this route. Directions can be found at the link.

The noon stop today is in Kinvara, known for Dunguaire Castle, built in the 1500's by the O'Hynes clan and restored to operation as a medieval banquet location. The castle is open during the day for exploration from 9.30am - 5pm for a small fee. For a lunch stop, try the Pier Head Pub with a fantastic view of the harbour and well reviewed seafood and steak. Connolly's is a good stop for a drink or try the Beo Cafe for a coffee or a light lunch in a quaint setting, yet with wireless internet access.

The ruined medieval church of St.Caimín, built in the 13th century, lies between the main road and Céibh a'Chéile (the oldest part of the quay). While wandering the 200 year old pier, notice the single masted sailing craft. Called Galway hookers, these can be rented for a 2 hour sail around the harbor for €25 a head. They are the centerpiece of the annual Cruinniú na mBád, or Gathering of the Boats, festival in August. This area once relied on such vessels to trade for peat with other settlements around the bay as they had no ready source of fuel.

On the way to Galway, don't miss Drumacoo, a medieval religious site dedicated to St Soarney, a female saint also honored in the Aran islands. Part of the structure dates from the 12th century and it also has stonework crafted in the 13th century by 'The School of the West" masons. There is a sunken well also dedicated to the saint. The site is open to the public.

Head into Galway for the evening if desired and book a room or bunk in the Sleepzone Galway hostel. Bunks are €15 - €20, while private double rooms run €30 per person. Conveniently located in the center of Galway City next to Eyre Square and a short walk from the bus terminal, this is the perfect time to enjoy some nightlife. Be sure to visit Shop St., a pedestrianized main street that is overflowing with things to see and do day and night, home to Lynch's Castle, which was a medieval townhouse, now converted to a bank. For a nice modest dinner, try Maxwell McNamara's on Williamsgate Street, off Eyre Square. I enjoyed the food and cozy atmosphere here last time I went several years ago.

As the largest medieval parish church in Ireland in continuous use as a place of worship, St. Nicholas is worth a visit. The earliest sections of the church date from 14th century and rumor has it that Christopher Columbus prayed here before setting sail. The church welcomes visitors all day, every day. Galway events worth planning a trip around include the Galway Sessions in June and the Arts Festival in July.

Head east out of Galway on the N6, but make sure to take the turn off onto R348 to Athenry, about half an hour away. Athenry is a 13th century town complete with a surviving stone wall, town gate, castle, Dominican priory, churches and graveyard ruins overgrown with wild flowers and vines.

The castle is massive, with three towers, and was restored in 1990 for touring. The grounds can be seen for free and it only cost €3 to climb have a look inside. Don't miss the medieval toilet. Nearby lies the striking ruin of the 13th century Dominican priory of S.S. Peter and Paul and accompanying graveyard. Also nearby is the heritage center with a model of the town as it would have stood in the 14th century. This is housed in structure built on top of the ruins of yet another 13th century church, this one St. Mary's. For the hungry, stop in the Newpark Hotel for hearty Irish fare that remains reasonably priced.

To reach Portumna, head southeast out of Athenry on R348, turning right onto R349 after about 5km. Follow R349 to Loughrea and meet the N6 for a short while until another right is taken onto R351. Follow for 15 km until Cuilleen and R353, and then R352 toward Portumna. This whole leg of the trip is about 50 km, but since it covers some smaller roads, plan on it taking at least an hour of drive time. There are a few interesting places to stop along the way, such as St Brendan's Cathedral in Loughrea, which has excellent stained glass set in a Celtic Revival style. Kilnaleghin Abbey and Kilcorban Dominican Friary are both ruins located along R353 before it runs into R352.

On the right, by the lakeside just before town is the Portumna Forest Park, which contains a 15th century abbey. The park is dominated by coniferous woodland with areas now being restored to native oak, ash and hazel. Scattered throughout there are occasional patches of ash and beech with silver birch yew and juniper in open woodland along the lake shore. There are 4 trail loops ranging from 1km to over 10kms for walkers and cyclists.

In the village, the Seoltoiri Sailing School offers beginner lessons in dinghy sailing, kayaking or windsurfing. Pallas Karting, Europe's largest go kart track is a bit pricey, but offers a kart track like I have never seen and race times ranging from 15 mins to an hour. For €3 the Portumna castle and gardens is open for viewing. Both King James I and Queen Elizabeth I of England visited this castle. The season runs from April - End of Oct and from 10am - 6pm. Last Admission at 5:15pm. Near Portumna Castle find another ruined medieval Dominican Priory. A tower remains along with the long windowed hall. There is also a partially restored cloister to the north. The friary was dissolved at the Reformation.

For an overnight in the lakeside town of Portumna, book a room at the Galway Shannonside Schoolhouse on St Brigid's Road. Dorm beds are €16-18.50 and private rooms are €43-50. The Ferry Inn Bar and Restaurant near the bridge serves traditional Irish Bar food for reasonable prices. There are also two supermarkets and an ATM (at the Bank of Ireland) in town to stock up if traveling supplies are running low. On Fridays 8.30 - 12.30 a country market takes place on the Fair Green next to the church of St Brigid.

Traveling south on the N65 over the bridge out of town, take a left on the R489 to head out for a visit to Lorrha. Within this tiny village are the remains of a 6th century monastery, two abbeys, a holy well and a Norman site. The first monastery in was founded by Saint Ruadhan. The eastern banks of this monastery are still evident, along with the remains of two 8th century crosses. Lorrha was plundered by both Cromwell men and the Vikings. A convent was built in the 12th century by Augustans and a Dominican Friary in the 13th by Walter de Burgo. A 12th century Norman defensive motte is a 200m north of the current church.

Head back south from Lorrha to meet the N65 for a short hop and then a right turn to take a drive along the Lough Derg through small lakeside hamlets, to the steam era port of Dromineer. This small town, easily explored on foot, is home to a 16th century towerhouse, the highly recommended Whiskey Still pub, a large playground for any kids that happen to be along (I count myself as one of them), The Canal Co. store on the lakeshore, and a 10th century ruined Parish Church.

From Dromineer, take R495 for a short drive into Nenagh for the evening. A double room at the Abbeyview B&B is €35 person including breakfast. Keeper Hill, south of Nenagh, is great place to catch a sunset with panoramic views of the surrounding lakes, mountains, rivers, and valleys. Nenagh Castle is dominated by a massive donjon, originally one of three towers of the 13th century Norman castle. A few hundred yards away, on Abbey Street, are the remains of a 13th-century Franciscan friary. Nenagh also has free admission to a Heritage and Family History Research Centre with a museum of rural life and genealogical resources for North Tiperrary. Pepe's is a good choice for dinner, with Italian style food as a specialty and for a more traditional meal, try The Pepper Mill, both on Kenyon St.

From Nenagh, follow R494 back toward the shore to reach Killaloe and Ballina. A majestic arched bridge, joins the two towns over river Shannon as it flows seawards from the Lower Lough Derg. St Flannan's Cathedral, in Killaloe, was built in the 12th century. It was destroyed and rebuilt in the 14th century with only a Romanesque arch surviving from the original building.

A thousand years ago Ireland's most famous king, Brian Boru, held court at Kincora (Ceann Coradh) on the high ground where the current Catholic church stands. His fort, Beal Boruma, stood on the site of an iron age ring at the head of Lough Derg, 2km north of the town, where a ford crossed the river. Every July these towns hold a Brian Boru Festival in his honor.

From Ballina, head back south to meet with the N7 heading to Limerick. There is one last stop before the city, and that is at the village of Castleconnell. The 'Castle of Connell' was built on a rock outcrop overlooking the bend of the river. It was destroyed in a siege by an army fighting in support of William of Orange at the end of the 17th century. A large chunk of the castle wall remains fifty feet from the rest of the ruins, thrown clear across the road by the siege cannon. There is a footbridge over the Shannon connecting counties Limerick and Clare. The village is also home to the Irish Harp Centre, and to the south lies the ruins of the Mountshannon house, a grand Palladian mansion gutted by fire early in the 20th century.

The final stop will be in the city of Limerick, about 20 minutes down the N7 from Castleconnell. Courtbrack is a solid option for those who wish to stay in the city center. A double room will cost €26 per person with a continental breakfast, internet and a self catering kitchen. For staying on the outskirts toward the airport, check into the Travelodge with double rooms costing €54.

Limerick has Viking roots reaching back to at least the 9th century. In the 12th century, the Norman's added their mark, including King John's Castle and St Mary's Cathedral. The English section is near the castle, while the Irish section is on the south bank of the Shannon. The Newtown Pery area was built in the late 18th century and retains some Georgian architecture even though modern growth is rapidly changing things here.

The Hunt Museum (€8 for adults), is located in the historic Custom House. Exhibits include the 9th century Antrim Cross, a sketch by Picasso and a bronze sculpture of a horse, based on a design by Leonardo da Vinci. While exploring the downtown area, keep a eye out for the Jasmine Palace, an extremely well reviewed restaurant that serves East Asian cuisine. Copper and Spice serves Indian and Thai and offers an early bird special three course meal with house wine/beer for €24.50. The Locke hosts traditional Irish music on Sundays and Thursdays. Dolan's plays Irish music every night and offers a restaurant with homemade soup and brown bread for €3.75 and a reasonably priced breakfast.

This wraps up with the trip back to Shannon airport, a few km up the N18 from Limerick. As always, a bit of homework ahead of time to suit your own interests and make sure of times and reservations will save a lot of headaches and open up even more options. I love Ireland and am always planning where else I might visit. Here's hoping that you've enjoyed this trip and that it inspires a hundred discoveries of your own.