Selecting Wheat for Whole Grain Baking

Bread is thought to be a universally similar food, yet it varies greatly from region to region and continent to continent. Bread in America is not the same as bread in Europe. Different climates mean different wheat. In fact, different regions of the United States also produce specific types of wheat that have limited uses. Yeast breads are more popular in the northern climates due to hard wheat grown there. Cornbread and muffins are prevalent in southern climates because of the soft wheat crop.

What's The Difference?

Why bother with whole grains? There are a multitude of reasons, but it is essential to know what it is you are getting when you purchase flour off the shelf at the store. All purpose flour has about 11% protein and has been sifted to remove the bran and the germ. Bleached flour is all purpose flour that has been chemically treated to bring about a uniform whiteness. Once a shift is made to whole grains, understanding several key terms will make baking easier.

Hard versus Soft

Hard wheat is that which has higher gluten content. Hard American wheat has about 14% protein, some of the highest gluten levels in the world. Hard wheat is recommended for yeast breads. The gluten is needed to support the dough when the yeast rises. Soft wheat has a lower gluten level, around 65 on average and works well for quick breads (those that are leavened with baking soda or powder).

Winter versus Spring

Winter wheat is planted in the winter and spring wheat is planted in the spring. It is planted in regions specific to its climactic growing needs. Winter wheat is grown in a moderate climate like that found in Kansas or Nebraska. Spring wheat is grown in harsher climates like Wyoming and the Dakotas. Winter wheat berries are usually slightly larger than their spring counterparts. When purchasing hard or soft wheat, it is not crucial to determine if the wheat is winter or spring, though it will likely be on the label.

Red versus White

The color of the wheat very much determines the flavor of the wheat. This is only a factor with hard wheat, because soft wheat is only white. It might also be labeled soft white pastry berries; the lack of gluten makes it appropriate pastry flour.

Hard white wheat has a mild flavor, and will make a product more like traditional white flour. I primarily use it in pie crusts, pizza crusts, and breads which might benefit from a mild flavor, like cinnamon raisin bread. Hard red wheat has a nuttier flavor more like traditional wheat bread. I like to use it in sourdoughs and everyday sandwich bread.

Whole wheat flour oxidizes with in about 72 hours of milling at room temperature, so it should be milled at home and used promptly. If it is purchased at a health food store, find it in the refrigerated section and store it at a cool temperature at home. Be sure to let it come to room temperature before you try to bake bread with it, for the temperature of dough greatly effects rising. Because whole wheat flour contains the bran and the germ, it also can go rancid once it has been milled. Be sure to use it by the date on the package. Whole grain wheat berries, on the other hand, have a shelf life of about seven years.