Setsubun: Good Luck the Japanese Way

In Japan there is no shortage of festivals and right now many houses, temples and shrines are gearing up for Setsubun to ward off evil and welcome in good luck.

This year it falls on Saturday February 3, the day before risshun, or the first day of spring. Even though it's still bitterly cold, many people say that just the idea that the season has changed makes them feel the weather has warmed up. That and the copious amounts of sake often drunk at most festivals!

What happens on the day:

It works something like this: the town chooses people, both adults and children, to dress in costume as oni or demons representing bad luck. They'll go from home to home and try to enter, only to be chased away by residents who throw dried soybeans (mame-maki) at them and shout "Oni wa soto, fuku wa uchi!" This means out with bad luck and in with good luck. People then usually pick up the number of beans corresponding with their age plus one for the coming year, and eat them. This is supposed to ensure health, happiness and prosperity. Maybe in the old days it was a solemn ritual but now people take part with excitement and enthusiasm. Children in particular love it, although you'll often see toddlers screaming in fright at the sight of the masked oni.

The costumes:

Garish red or green costumes are worn with masks to cover their faces. The word oni is said to have come from on, the on-yomi reading of a character which means to hide or conceal. Legend has it the oni were originally invisible spirits who caused chaos and disease, sometimes deceiving and eating humans.

The festivities:

Depending on the area, there may also be a street festival of small stalls where you can buy traditional festival food like yakisoba (fried noodles), watagashi (cotton candy) and takoyaki or octopus fritters. You can also buy one of a variety of oni masks with both eyes white. What you do is make a wish and blacken one of the eyes with a marker. A year later, when your wish has come true, you can fill in the other eye.

Events in the US:

If you have a temple near you, check out their events listing to see if they're having a Setsubun event.
In Boston, the Kaji Aso Studio at 40 St Stephen Street, is having a Bean Night Celebration on Friday February 2 from 7.30pm to 9.30pm. It's $7 for adults and $4 for children under 12 year old, including Japanese tea and a sweet pastry. Reserve at 617-247-1719 or administrator@kajiasostudio.com.