Shrubs and Tree Care Before Planting

Too often, we purchase plants on a pretty day, only to have the weather change, making prompt planting impossible. When sudden changes in weather or other activities make planting impossible, it is important to give plants excellent care. If they are ignored they may be damaged or killed while you are waiting for proper soil conditions or a convenient time for planting. Preparation in advance of purchasing plants is one of the best ideas.

Make holes for planting in advance or, in the case of perennial flowers, spade or till the area in advance of plant purchase. Soil that is removed from the holes can be covered with plastic to prevent excessive moisture absorption if heavy rains develop. Flower beds that are not too large can be covered with plastic either before or after preparation to keep them dry enough to be workable.

Plants that are purchased without soil or bare-root need special attention to make sure they survive. Such plants may be in plastic packages containing a material such as peat moss or fiber around their roots, but are without soil. After these are purchased, open or remove the wrapping and make sure that the material around the roots as well as the roots are moist. If dry, add moisture but make sure that water does not stand in the bottom of the plastic bag. Re wrap and close the plastic or other wrapping to maintain this moisture. Put the plants into a cool basement or other room but keep above freezing.

Before planting trees or shrubs that have been bare-rooted, it is often helpful to soak the roots overnight or for at least eight hours, but never more than 24 hours. If plants have been soaked, but conditions prevent planting, rewrap them and place them in a cool location as before, but do not try to hold them with their roots in water. If soil is workable outdoors, another temporary technique called "heeling-in" is beneficial. This is done by digging a shallow trench in the garden or some other workable spot and placing the plants or shrubs in a somewhat horizontal position.

With the roots and even portions of the tops covered with soil, moisture is maintained and cool temperatures outdoors keep them dormant. A semi-shaded spot is preferable but not essential. Plants may be kept for several weeks in this way. Frosts do not hurt them if buds have not broken before they are placed outdoors. Many plants are either sold in containers or balled-and-burlapped. These are more easily kept until favorable planting time since roots are established and protected by the soil or soil mixture. Keep these plants in a cool location with some protection from prevailing winds and a good light. Keep them where they will be convenient to water and maintain the soil bail slightly moist at all times.

New plants should be given a planting hole at least a foot wider and 6 inches deeper than the spread of the roots, or the soil ball. If the native soil is very different from the medium around the roots, mix organic matter to the existing soil to form a transition area between the two. Abrupt differences may prevent roots from penetrating the parent soil, confining them largely to the planting hole for a long time. Burlap does not have to be removed from balled-and-burlapped plants, but twine may be cut. If plants were grown in a container and have developed circling roots, cut or spread these roots to keep them from becoming girdling roots as the plant grows larger.

Source:

http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/trees/430-295/430-295.html