Silk: The Queen of Fibers

The domesticated mulberry caterpillar is named Bombyx mori in Latin. (see Tussah below).

The domestic silkworm is 3 inches long when fullgrown (7.5 cm). It produces liquid silk in two glands, and forcing it "through openings in its head called spinnerets." -- Wikipedia

The sphincter of the silkworm is triangular, almost prismatic, in shape, producing a reflective fiber that breaks light into its individual colors.

When the pupa emerges from the cocoon, it cuts through the long monofilament which it has spun. Therefore, silk from fully grown silk moths has short fibers and is usually of inferior quality. (see Spun Silk below)

The pupa must be killed before emerging from the cocoon to preserve the long monofilament thread.

After that, the cocoons are soaked in very hot water to remove the seracin, a natural glue that the silkworm uses to seal and harden the cocoon.

Filaments of thread from several cocoons are drawn at the same time (since a single strand is too delicate) to form a thread, and reeled, or unwound from the cocoons and wound again onto a reel or spindle.

The number of these silk filament that is twisted together determines the strength of the thread.

Raw silk is not boiled a second time, so is stiff and somewhat transparent, because of the residual seracin.

Boiled silk is boiled in hot soapy water to remove the seracin. This produces an off-white, milky colored thread.

At this point, the threads are dyed and/or woven.

GLOSSARY

"Ahimsa Silk, made from the cocoons of wild and semi-wild silk moths, is promoted in parts of Southern India for those who prefer not to wear silk produced by killing silkworms." --Wikipedia.

Duppioni (dupioni) are the threads from a cocoon which had two caterpillars inside. The threads are slubby and twisted, forming a rough, knotty texture. These thereads can be woven alone into dupioni silk or combined with other silk threads into shantung.

Noile is thread and fabric made from very short fibers of silk.

Spun Silk is make from the broken threads of the fully hatched silk moth.

Tussah is wild silk. The color is generally tan or brown because the wild caterpillar feeds on oak leaves. Tussah also tends to be a stiffer fiber than domestic silk.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Identifying silk in garments and fabric: Silk has a natural patina similar to the texture of a pearl. An experienced hand can determine the authenticity of a silk fabric as well as the percentage of silk and other fibers it contains.

Beneficial qualities: Being a natural fiber, silk absorbs moisture, helping perspiration evaporate. It keeps us warm in winter and cool in summer.