Sinyone State Park--Best Day Hike in Mendocino County

The "Lost Coast," as the area between the inland bend of California Route 1, at Cottoneva Creek, and Bear Harbor has been known recently, was never really lost. For centuries, it was the home of the Sinkyone people, who made an annual migration to the area in summer, to collect seaweed, abalone, nightfish and a variety of seafood. In winter, they traveled inland, after gathering acorns in the fall from the abundant tanoaks of the coastal hills.

Following their destruction in a series of bloody encounters with white settlers, toward the end of the 19^th century, the area became home to a small lumber mill, property of the USA Lumber company, and its eponymous town, Usal. The townsite was located at the opening of a wide gulch, one of the few flat places on the 24 mile dirt road which follows the inland boundary of the present-day park. Those interested in exploring remnants of this disappeared settlement can easily spend a day at the mouth of Hotel Gulch, named for the long-vanished lodging where travelers and gypsy loggers once stayed. It's also interesting to wander Usal beach, and consider the challenges faced by mariners who moored there to take on loads of tanbark, lumber and beef , leather or wool in the early days of settlement.

Following the demise of the town and mill, the hills were used by cattle and sheep ranchers, while Fort Bragg's Union Lumber Company, and later Georgia-Pacific, logged the old-growth redwood and fir, except for a small stand of rare virgin timber just north of Wolf Creek, also known as Jackass Creek, about halfway between the north and south limits of the park, which is conveniently traversed by the often steep but well-marked trail, and easily reached on a moderately challenging day-hike.

The entire area was the subject of great controversy in the late 1980s, as preservationists sought state aid in having the park established, and timber workers struggled to maintain harvesting rights to the valuable timber.

It was around that time that the park and the area around it was dubbed the "Lost Coast" by people who discovered its rich history and abundance of wildlife, wild seashore and plants.

It's still a wild and scenic spot, the longest stretch of California's coast without a paved road, full of rugged hills, secret coves and imposing bluffs.

To get there from Fort Bragg, drive north up Route 1, passing through the ghost town of Rockport and just past Cottoneva Creek, look for the State Park insignia at the foot of the narrow dirt road where it meets the highway. Usually, there is some sort of spray-painted mark on the highway itself, but it pays to keep a sharp eye for the switchback turn which leads away from pavement. Once on the road-not recommended for large vehicles, but passable for most cars and pickups-you'll need to move slowly for the six miles of one-lane road.

If you meet someone headed out of the park, it may be necessary to back up a short distance and let them pass, but if the driver is a local in a 4-wheel drive, they'll probably put a wheel or two on the shoulder and give you room. This isn't usually much of a problem, because, even during holiday weekends when other parks are crowded, Sinkyone receives few visitors.

Day use parking is free at the beach, which is also the southern terminus of a walking trail built in the 1980s by the California Conservation Corps. The trail follows the bluffs, with moderate climbs rewarded by breathtaking views of the coast. Naturally, you'll want to pack water, since what you'll see in creeks and springs, while probably drinkable, may contain giarda bacteria, which produces an uncomfortable intestinal complaint.

Camping is always available at primitive sites located in a pair of alder groves near Usal Creek. You probably won't see a ranger, but fees can be paid at the iron ranger located near the first site you'll arrive at. Fees are modest, and registration is as easy as claiming the site you like, leaving a receipt on the dashboard of your vehicle, and waiting for the ranger who makes a daily round, driving from the north end of the park to the south, to verify that you've paid your fee.

In order to walk the entire trail, you'll need to plan on camping at least one night, unless you're unusually robust. The trail covers about sixteen miles with several long climbs and descents, following creeks and traversing dramatic bluffs. You'll hear sea lions sporting about on the rocks, which are sometimes as far as 800 feet down a sheer drop, and deer, foxes, raccoons and similar wildlife are common. Less common, but worth watching for, are black bear and mountain lion, and, at the northern end of the trail, a resident herd of elk. It's a very good idea to move slowly around the elk, which regard the trail as their own and show very little inclination to move.

If you have a lot of time to hike and camp, you can proceed north past Bear Harbor-a picturesque small beach with tidepools, easily accessed from the north by driving through Redway and Briceland from Highway 101--and Needle Rock, and enter the King Range, BLM land which covers thousands more acres of equally wild land toward the small towns.

Day hikers will find plenty of adventure and solitude in the beautiful, uncrowded jewel of the California coast.

Sources:

Fort Bragg Advocate News

An Everyday History of Somewhere, Ray Raphael

Anderson Valley Advertiser

New Settler Interview