Slows: Detroit's Best Barbeque

No doubt about it, Detroit has seen better days. Head toward downtown from the western suburbs, and the scenery out your window - bombed out buildings, gaudy adult entertainment venues, crumbling infrastructure - will make your jaw scrape the pavement. It's difficult to imagine how anything could flourish in this landscape, but Slows Bar-B-Q has done just that. Consider it a seed of hope entrenched in what will be Detroit's long revitalization process.

Located at 2138 Michigan Avenue, Slows has built quite a reputation since its 2005 opening. None other than Adam Richman of Man v. Food fame has endorsed both the restaurant's smoked delights and its visionary attitude toward Detroit's future. On the word of Richman and local publications, I headed east with three fellow carnivores to partake of Detroit's prized urban smokehouse. Slows holds the corner spot on a block-long storefront, just down the road from another Detroit landmark: Michigan Central Station.

We entered the restaurant midday on a hot July weekend, not expecting hordes of people or a wait. Wrong assumption. We sat at the bar for about twenty minutes before the hostess buzzed us for our table. Slows interior capitalizes on the unique architecture details that make older buildings special - exposed brickwork, high beams, intimate spaces. The rich wood, clean lines, and modern soundtrack unite old and new in a space equally appealing to southern transplants with a hankering for ribs, hipsters seeking beer and ambiance, or families from the western suburbs in search of good food, reasonable prices, and a small role in supporting Detroit's economy - and, perhaps, makeover.

While service was - for lack of better word - slow, our waitress was attentive, and we could stave off stomach growls with the Niman Ranch Brisket Enchilada appetizer. Picture two corn tortillas filled with tender brisket and Gouda, then topped with just enough cheese and a deep red sauce. The appetizer was a definite winner and would certainly tempt this patron if elevated to an entrée portion.

Three of us chose the Carolina Pulled Pork entrée, while our fourth diner opted for the pulled pork sandwich. For $12.95, we each received a heaping portion of pulled pork and two generous sides. The meat was tender and flavorful, although I'd prefer a bit more smokiness to my barbeque. My waffle fries were simply seasoned with salt and fresh from the fryer. Delicious though they were, next time I would order the macaroni and cheese. Also offered as an entrée, the mac and cheese I forked from a companion's plate was sinfully rich and decadent. Another surprising standout? The green beans, tender crisp and bathed in a mustardy sauce. The pulled pork sandwich is cheaper at $7.95 (standard price for all sandwiches) but does not include two sides. Ribs, brisket, jambalaya, catfish, and salmon round out the main course options. All barbeque joints are about the sauce, and at Slows, you have a squeeze bottle lineup at your table from which to select your weapon. Based on our private taste test, the Apple and Mustard sauces were unanimous winners.

Slows offers ample portions for a price that won't make you cringe. The meat is tender and flavorful, and the sides command attention in their own right. Interior seating is noisy but energetic, and on a pleasant summer day, the enclosed patio would be a great place for your feast.