Soaking in the Waters of Wulai

Feel what?

My taxi driver dramatically took a deep breath, and said with a satisfying smile: "The positive mountain energy. This air in Wulai has cured many people from arthritis to asthma. It's magical."

I peer out into the gorge opening before us, as we roll slowly to a stop in front of an antique pedestrian footbridge. The air is misty with drizzling rain, giving the valley a mystical feel. Steams rise from the river below, warm with a slight sulphuric scent.

I paid my fare, thanked my driver and followed the crowd down 'Wulai Old Street'.

Wulai began as a small indigenous Taiwanese town hidden in the valleys just outside the capital Taipei. The Japanese discovered its natural springs during their occupation of Taiwan and developed Wulai into a small hot spring resort. Now, it's visited by tourists in the hundreds, both for well being and for nostalgic purposes.

The narrow Old Street has an old world charm. Old wooden and bamboo buildings are like lego blocks along the riverside, colourful shop signs hover just above my head, children in mock indigenous battle wear chase each other on the streets, shops with rows and rows of handicrafts for sale, and street vendors with their char coal barbecues selling grilled octopus and wild hog sausages, with smell of these delicacies linger in the air mixed with the scent of the hot springs creates a particular atmosphere that is the definition of Wulai.

I follow the directions written for me on the back of a business card and found myself at the entrance to an old hotel. My check in was as efficient as conversing in broken English can be, however the experience was warm and friendly. My room over looked the river, where I watch groups of local families gathered at the public bath enjoying the warm soak in this cold windy day. Men sit and meditate in the crowded, yet orderly concrete tubs while mothers and their children play in the larger, shallower end splashing water about with jokes and laughter. Besides the healing power my taxi driver had told me about, I have also heard the waters of Wulai also cleanse the body and have rumoured to turn frogs into princesses.

As much as I love mingling with locals whenever I travel, this time I opt to enjoy this natural spring in the private of my own bathing room. The hire of the room cost me NT$200 for an hour (approx. US$3) and I got to look at the scenery through the window as I beautify myself with the mineral filled waters. It may be pseudo effect but I do feel more energised after the bath, and my skin felt younger and softer. For dinner, I devoured a tub of bamboo rice with 'Dragon Hair' greens, and tried some local ginger tea. I took my time and ate with a smile, as if someone had taken over my worries leaving me relaxed and content. My taxi driver was right. Even for a healthy person like me, this place is definitely magical.