Solutions for Row 3 of PK Espresso Doily
Oh! My goodness! What a beautiful doily! I've done all types of needlework before, but never, like this. As I was making the Espresso doily I found myself saying continually, "What a beautiful doily," "I can't believe it; What a beautiful doily!" I was literally in awe and felt special to be able to create this doily from a pattern-so superb. I've never had an experience like this before. I was actually almost breathless while was stitching this doily. The beauty of it is spectacular. If you decide to make this doily be prepared for a wonderful experience. It's complicated, while being simple. Puzzling, yet it brings about revelation. Ornate, through abstract variation of the most basic of stitches. I could feel the genius of this designer in duplicating her works. Almost--as if she were playing with her audience through the patterns. It's been a while since I crocheted, and, knitting is my forte, but looking over Patricia Kristoffersen's designs on Flickr, I fell in love with the works and thought I could to crochet these doilies endlessly.
So here we are. And, help is on the way. Preparation is key...
This is what you'll need for Row 3 of the Espresso doily. Have ready...
* (An abbreviated) Front Post Double Treble Crochet Cluster (Beginning FPdtr)
** Front Post Double Treble Crochet Cluster (FPdtr)
Before we begin let me define a FPdtr. A FPdtr is a long treble crochet that is worked in a row at least two rows, below the current row. To make a FPdtr, the thread is wrapped around the crochet needle three times, the crochet needle is then inserted in a pre-marked stitch on the designated row, and the stitches worked off two at a time. After the last two loops are worked, the FPdtr must be fastened to the row where it ends. Most likely the FPdtr will be fastened by a single crochet or slip stitch. And, the FPdtr is a little tricky as it must be controlled when making it, both, at the top and the bottom, as you'll see in the next paragraphs.
So here's what we have with Row 3...Row 3 requires working two rows simultaneously. To create Row 3, stitches have to be made on Rows 1 and 2. The FPdtrs of Row 3 are looped through specially formed stitches on Row 1, called "free loops". The second part of making the stitches for Row 3, is single crochets. The single crochets are made on Row 2 as normal. The difficulty begins, however, with the FPdtrs. The bulkiness and placement of the FPdtrs makes it difficult to automatically place the single crochets in the proper ch-2 space. The FPdtr you'll have just made, will obscure the ch-2 space you'll need to work in. Furthermore, there's a difference of four stitches between the bottom of the FPdtr and the top of that same FPdtr. This gives the signature spiral to the row, but, it's also confusing when jumping from row 3 down to row 1, making the FPdtr, and coming back up to Row 2 to make a single crochet in--what may or may not be the right ch-2 space...Whew! It does get a little confusing if you've never tried it.
So...the solution to the problems of Row 3 is this; after row 2 is made, there will be 18 ch-2 spaces. Attach a crochet stitch marker in each ch-2 space. There should now be 18 stitch markers hanging on your work. Attach a different crochet stitch marker or a piece of brightly colored thread at the beginning of Row 2, as well. So the order of the beginning of Row 3 is this; slip stitch, chain 1, single crochet, then (Beginning) FPdtr. As you make your first FPdtr it will sit in front of the ch-2 space you'll need to make your single crochet stitch in-which will also be the first marker on Row 2, after the piece of thread.
Remove the first marker. Make your slip stitch, chain-1 and single crochet in that same chain-2 space. Now, yarn over three times to make your (Beginning) FPdtr down on Row 1 in the pre-marked stitch (Since you're making your FPdtr in a free loop, [which is only the front half of a single crochet], once you place the crochet needle through the free loop, hold the stitch close to the work as you work off the stitches two at a time, so the free loop does not become stretched and flimsy). Then, remove the second stitch marker and make your second single crochet in the second ch-2 space on Row 2. Proceed, and make your second FPdtr down on Row 1 in the next free loop, remove the third stitch marker...and so on. In this way, you are assured of placing your sc in the proper space and your spirals will remain true. This advice comes to you hard-earned, as I ripped out enough rows in making this doily, to be equivalent to about four of the same completed doilies.
As for the FPdtrs, if you're having a problem with making them look neat, here is what I did; hold the working loop on the crochet needle with your lead finger, make your three yo's, as you draw off two loops at a time-control it; holding the supply line thread taut while managing the stitches on the needle, in this way the first loop is not overly large. And, this is important, because the next row, Row 4, is an open scalloped row. You'll be skipping every FPdtr! So a big loop on the top of any FPdtr is going to be highlighted by the open scallop "framing" it. Know that Rows 3 and 4 are showcase rows, mistakes here will be very prominent.
Oh-hhhh! I almost forgot--the water soluble marking pencil. You'll need to mark the loops on Row 1 where you'll begin to make the FPdtrs. As stated previously, the loops are actually only the front half of the single crochets made on Row 1. That's why their called free loops. Once again, as you work the FPdtrs, it's the bulkiness of the stitch that does the confusing. Once you make the bulky FPdtr it's hard to tell where the next free loop is; is it under the FPdtr? Or, is it the one sitting a little far to the left? Take the mystery out of this decision; before starting row 3, color every other free loop in one color, and then fill in the remaining alternating free loops with the second color. At a glance you'll know which is the correct stitch. And, too, this is important because stretching the wrong free loop (or wrong stitch-period), can distort the pattern and cause the row(s) to have to be re-worked. So this is another time saver that will keep you doily perfect as you crochet it.
By next week, I'll post pictures showing examples of the instructions herein. But, it will not be without embarrassment. My completed doily will be like comparing a virtuoso painting to a Renoir, a Monet, and in detail-a Da Vinci. So I trust that you take away from this article the confidence to indulge in your own experience with Espresso. And, know that you'll have personally worked on a masterpiece, and created an heirloom, par excellence.
1. Of note, a leverback crochet stitch marker can be a good option, because it opens quickly and rather easily, with just a flip of the fastener.
So here we are. And, help is on the way. Preparation is key...
This is what you'll need for Row 3 of the Espresso doily. Have ready...
- water soluble marking pencils (2) of different colors
- 20 stitch markers1
* (An abbreviated) Front Post Double Treble Crochet Cluster (Beginning FPdtr)
** Front Post Double Treble Crochet Cluster (FPdtr)
Before we begin let me define a FPdtr. A FPdtr is a long treble crochet that is worked in a row at least two rows, below the current row. To make a FPdtr, the thread is wrapped around the crochet needle three times, the crochet needle is then inserted in a pre-marked stitch on the designated row, and the stitches worked off two at a time. After the last two loops are worked, the FPdtr must be fastened to the row where it ends. Most likely the FPdtr will be fastened by a single crochet or slip stitch. And, the FPdtr is a little tricky as it must be controlled when making it, both, at the top and the bottom, as you'll see in the next paragraphs.
So here's what we have with Row 3...Row 3 requires working two rows simultaneously. To create Row 3, stitches have to be made on Rows 1 and 2. The FPdtrs of Row 3 are looped through specially formed stitches on Row 1, called "free loops". The second part of making the stitches for Row 3, is single crochets. The single crochets are made on Row 2 as normal. The difficulty begins, however, with the FPdtrs. The bulkiness and placement of the FPdtrs makes it difficult to automatically place the single crochets in the proper ch-2 space. The FPdtr you'll have just made, will obscure the ch-2 space you'll need to work in. Furthermore, there's a difference of four stitches between the bottom of the FPdtr and the top of that same FPdtr. This gives the signature spiral to the row, but, it's also confusing when jumping from row 3 down to row 1, making the FPdtr, and coming back up to Row 2 to make a single crochet in--what may or may not be the right ch-2 space...Whew! It does get a little confusing if you've never tried it.
So...the solution to the problems of Row 3 is this; after row 2 is made, there will be 18 ch-2 spaces. Attach a crochet stitch marker in each ch-2 space. There should now be 18 stitch markers hanging on your work. Attach a different crochet stitch marker or a piece of brightly colored thread at the beginning of Row 2, as well. So the order of the beginning of Row 3 is this; slip stitch, chain 1, single crochet, then (Beginning) FPdtr. As you make your first FPdtr it will sit in front of the ch-2 space you'll need to make your single crochet stitch in-which will also be the first marker on Row 2, after the piece of thread.
Remove the first marker. Make your slip stitch, chain-1 and single crochet in that same chain-2 space. Now, yarn over three times to make your (Beginning) FPdtr down on Row 1 in the pre-marked stitch (Since you're making your FPdtr in a free loop, [which is only the front half of a single crochet], once you place the crochet needle through the free loop, hold the stitch close to the work as you work off the stitches two at a time, so the free loop does not become stretched and flimsy). Then, remove the second stitch marker and make your second single crochet in the second ch-2 space on Row 2. Proceed, and make your second FPdtr down on Row 1 in the next free loop, remove the third stitch marker...and so on. In this way, you are assured of placing your sc in the proper space and your spirals will remain true. This advice comes to you hard-earned, as I ripped out enough rows in making this doily, to be equivalent to about four of the same completed doilies.
As for the FPdtrs, if you're having a problem with making them look neat, here is what I did; hold the working loop on the crochet needle with your lead finger, make your three yo's, as you draw off two loops at a time-control it; holding the supply line thread taut while managing the stitches on the needle, in this way the first loop is not overly large. And, this is important, because the next row, Row 4, is an open scalloped row. You'll be skipping every FPdtr! So a big loop on the top of any FPdtr is going to be highlighted by the open scallop "framing" it. Know that Rows 3 and 4 are showcase rows, mistakes here will be very prominent.
Oh-hhhh! I almost forgot--the water soluble marking pencil. You'll need to mark the loops on Row 1 where you'll begin to make the FPdtrs. As stated previously, the loops are actually only the front half of the single crochets made on Row 1. That's why their called free loops. Once again, as you work the FPdtrs, it's the bulkiness of the stitch that does the confusing. Once you make the bulky FPdtr it's hard to tell where the next free loop is; is it under the FPdtr? Or, is it the one sitting a little far to the left? Take the mystery out of this decision; before starting row 3, color every other free loop in one color, and then fill in the remaining alternating free loops with the second color. At a glance you'll know which is the correct stitch. And, too, this is important because stretching the wrong free loop (or wrong stitch-period), can distort the pattern and cause the row(s) to have to be re-worked. So this is another time saver that will keep you doily perfect as you crochet it.
By next week, I'll post pictures showing examples of the instructions herein. But, it will not be without embarrassment. My completed doily will be like comparing a virtuoso painting to a Renoir, a Monet, and in detail-a Da Vinci. So I trust that you take away from this article the confidence to indulge in your own experience with Espresso. And, know that you'll have personally worked on a masterpiece, and created an heirloom, par excellence.
1. Of note, a leverback crochet stitch marker can be a good option, because it opens quickly and rather easily, with just a flip of the fastener.
DISCLOSURE OF MATERIAL CONNECTION:
The Contributor has no connection to nor was paid by the brand or product described in this content.
The Contributor has no connection to nor was paid by the brand or product described in this content.
Published by Aliyah Spears
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