Sotto Mare in San Francisco, California: A Restaurant Review

Formerly known as Gigi Fiorucci's Oysteria and Seafood Restaurant, Sotto Mare serves up pretty much the same range of seafood fare as they ever did courtesy of chef Gigi Fiorucci.

The design of the restaurant is apparently meant to look like something from the early part of the latter century, combined with some kitsch that looks like it was borrowed from nearby Fisherman's Wharf. Only minor complaint here is the tables and chairs, which go for the old school flavor by being small and wooden and not entirely comfortable.

Entrees run from about the $10 to $20 range and lean heavily towards pasta and seafood combinations. The ciopinno, a fresh fish stew composed of Dungeness crab, shrimp, scallops, mussels and clams with fresh tomato and Italian seasonings, and some nice sourdough bread on the side, is definitely the main dish of the house here. As with most "gourmet" foods that restaurants now charge nearly $20 a head for, this originated as a meal made by poor Italian fishermen just scrapping together whatever they had left over of the day's catch, and actually originated right here in North Beach. If you want something less soupy there's usually fresh crab and lobster on hand, be sure you know how to crack a lobster properly though as you are on your own with that one. I also liked the fettuccine and I think pretty much any seafood variation of it will please you.

Despite being very popular the place has retained a local feel, I think it's just far enough off the beaten path for tourists that it hasn't been overrun by them. The owner and main chef Gigi is usually on hand and wandering about if not cooking along with scads of his friends and family dropping by to eat and have a chat. The seating could stand to be more comfortable but it's a nice neighborhood atmosphere, which is good for a place charging prices that usually limit the clientele to uptight yupsters.

I don't have the kind of cash to eat at a place like this on the regular (which is great because most of the neighborhood actually considers $25 to $30 per plate "downscale" ... welcome to rich-ass downtown San Francisco), but I'll definitely come by for a special occasion or to bring a guest to impress them with "real Italian cooking" in North Beach. And it also inspired me to learn to make my own ciopinno ... probably gonna have to leave out the Dungeness and the shrimp though, unless I go catch it myself.

Sotto Mare
552 Green Street
San Francisco, CA 94133
# 415-398-3181
http://www.sottomaresf.com/