1. Big Rock at Lake Perris State Park. The park is located just 6.5 miles East of the 215 freeway. Big Rock has been a popular beginner / intermediate climbing location for years with climbing conditions suitable all year round. With easy bolted face climbs, this is an excellent area to learn to lead. The climbing includes low angle friction climbing and edge climbing. With over thirty climbs the rating ranges from 5.7 to 5.10d. Lake Perris State Recreation Area offers campgrounds available for tents and motor homes. For information call: (800) 444-PARK.
2. Malibu Creek, Santa Monica. Malibu Creek is located in the Santa Monica National Recreation Area, off of the 101 freeway. The Malibu Creek State Park has two excellent climbing walls, The Planet of the Apes Wall and Ghetto Wall, each featuring pocket climbing on volcanic rock. Apes Wall is a popular top-rope area with climbers of all abilities, although the ratings range from 5.9 to 5.12d. This is a perfect location for overhung walls and it is best in cooler temperatures. The Ghetto features advanced to expert level routes, 5.9 to 5.13c, that climb out a steep cave-like wall. Malibu Creek State Park offers campgrounds, as well as there being a number of hotels in the general area. For information call (818) 880-0367.
3. Devil's Punchbowl. An excellent holiday climbing location, with climbing available September through May. Devil's Punchbowl County Park is located about half an hour outside the city of Palmdale and is a conglomerate of sandstone cliffs. Most of the walls face north and feature slight overhanging climbing suitable for intermediate to expert level climbs ranging from 5.9 to 5.12d.
Devil's Punchbowl features eleven different climbing walls, including several multi-pitch climbs. The slightly overhanging Attitude Wall is the most popular wall at this area for advanced to expert climbers. The climbing involves pocket pulling, with the crux often involving the use of small conglomerate stones between pockets. But again there is a wide variety of climbing to experience, from the very steep Hidden Wall to the traditional routes of the Punchbowl Proper. Although there is no camping at this site, you can find campsites near the area. For information call (805) 944-2187.
4. Santa Barbara area climbing. This area has been popular for years with traditional climbers. It offers steep climbing on sandstone outcroppings, and has many good routes for climbers of all abilities. The Santa Barbara walls are best in winter. There are six walls here just off of Gibralter Road including Gibralter Rock, Tangerine Falls and Cold Springs. Climbs range from 5.4 to 5.12c. Although there are no convenient campgrounds, there are numerous hotels in the general area.
5. High Desert climbing. The High Desert is located in Apple Valley in the vicinity of Big Bear Valley Road and Hwy. 18. The High Desert features a wide variety of routes on Joshua Tree type granite. Each of the four major locations located here offer numerous walls with routes for all abilities. This is possibly the warmest climbing area in Southern California because several of the cliffs face south and are warm during the coldest months of the year, making it an excellent location for the winter holidays.
The Cemetery is the most popular area in the High Desert with ten different walls which contains a multitude of routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.11c. More advanced climbers will enjoy BMX Hillside and the Dead Zone which offer many routes worthy of attention, with routes ranging from 5.9 to 5.13d. Again there are no convenient campgrounds, but there are hotels in the general area.
6. Joshua Tree State Park. If none of these winter wonderland locations spark your interest grab some gear and your buddies and head to Joshua Tree State Park, the best climbing in all of Southern California. With routes for all climbers, no matter whether it's your first day or fifteenth year, you will find numerous challenging and enjoyable climbs. Joshua Tree State Park offers numerous campgrounds and has excellent climbing conditions in winter.
Published by Karen Osborn
I am 31 years old and taking it a year at a time...next year might be 31 too! Married 10+ years, we are raising our 5 year old and our 2 year old as best we can. View profile
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