Spain's Andalusian Secret

Rolling, mossy hills surround town, creating a sense of safety as a simple stroll through the tiny winding streets all dead end at farm land. Cow manure lingers in the damp morning air. Birds glide carelessly over cloudless blue sky, occasionally swooping down to the sprawling landscape below. For a moment, you forget you're in Spain, that you're hours from any major tourist trap city. Your expectations were exceeded the moment you stepped into town.

The majority of Spain is compiled of cities whose idea of foliage and nature are designated parks stuffed full of honorary statues and fountains, and those pesky weeds that struggle their way toward sunlight through cobblestone walkways. Metropolitan locales can have their old world charm interspersed with the taxis zipping about, the pushy waiters hocking el menu del dia in crowded plazas, and overpriced attractions. But the beauty of a small stopover town like Ronda in the Andalusian province is being able to relax without the push and shove that seems to be required in places like Madrid or Barcelona, without feeling like you have to rush to see sights.

Ronda is a prime example of laid back atmosphere as you stroll the Puente Viejo and cross paths with an old Rodeño man who walks solemnly with his donkey. The landscape from this particular bridge showcases the fern green fields and the most vivid cornflower blue sky seen anywhere. The colors meld to create a seamless backdrop for a town that is more under-appreciated than travel guides portray.

Home to the oldest bullfighting ring in the country and several ages-past celebrities like Orson Welles and Ernest Hemingway, it is a wonder why Ronda remains a hidden secret. Thousands of travelers shuffle through town annually, sneaking peeks in tiny shop windows, grabbing cheap bagfuls of goodies at the fruiterias, and forging over cobblestone steps and angles toward the heart of town. Included in the sights to see in Ronda are the three major bridges: Puente Nuevo (the tallest), Puente Viejo (also called the Arab bridge) and Puente Romano. An impressive chasm rips through the center of the city, dividing the ancient from the modern.

Aside from the serenity you can find in any corner of Ronda, another of the highlights is its location. The nearest places of interest are just over 100 kilometers away in Málaga and the magnificent Costa del Sol, followed by Sevilla, Córdoba, and San Roque/La Línea, which separates Spain from Gibraltar. Train tickets are affordable and can fit into any budget.

Consider using Ronda as a home base where you can take day trips out to places like Gibraltar, Arcos de la Frontera, or Marbella; places you would not necessarily want to stay the night. Cuisine ranges from flavorsome European style pizza at lower-end cafes to baked octopus at the splendid Parador restaurant, all at reasonable prices. Tapas and traditional Spanish beers are still prevalent in this sleepy old Roman and Moorish-influenced town, but indulge in something more than inexpensive bar treats to truly enjoy a stopover from the go-go-go of the rest of Spain. Sip sangria while you overlook the canyon; guzzle gazpacho while watching the sun set; enjoy the Rodeños and all their itty bitty home has to offer.