Spectacles, Birdcages and Parasols - Victorian and Neo-Victorian Terms

Introduction:

Elegance, drama, romance, and a now unfound innocence characterized the fashion, art, literature, and overall culture prominent during Queen Victoria's reign. Since the 1980s, followers of Neo-Victorian ("new Victorian") fashion and culture have sought to resurrect this beautiful period but with their own modifications for a slightly more practical lifestyle and aesthetically diverse look. In this compilation of over 100 terms, you, dear reader, will learn about the then and the now of everything from spectacles to birdcages to parasols. So step back in time and then jolt back to the present because Victorian fashions and culture have a surprisingly long timeline.

Note: If a term is italicized within a definition, then that word itself contains its own separate definition in this glossary. A term set in quotation marks does not contain a definition within this glossary.

Terms:

Aesthetic Dress Movement: a 19^th century fashion movement started by members of a group known as the Pre-Ralphaelite Brotherhood that encouraged women to dress in the style of loose, romantic clothing worn by female subjects in medieval and Renaissance paintings. These flowing gowns were a huge contrast to the typically very structured outfits worn by mainstream Victorian women. Many

Neo-Victorian women will wear such gowns for formal or artistic occasions, such as weddings, gallery openings, or poetry readings.

Alice in Wonderland: a children's novel about a girl named Alice who travels into a rabbit's hole and into a fantasy world, written by British author Lewis Carroll in 1865. One of the most famous scenes in the novel occurs at a tea party with a character called the

Mad Hatterwhile "The Walrus and the Carpenter," a poem in the book, remains widely read today. Many

Neo-Victorian followers cite the novel as a cultural inspiration in their lives.

Aniline: an organic compound that readily yield synthetic dyestuffs; in 1856, William Henry Perkin discovered mauve, a purple dye that became so popular that aniline soon became used on a wide industrial scale. The compound soon helped produced a variety of other bright colors popular during the latter part of the

Victorian era.

Neo-Victorian fashion often feature mauve in the form of details contrasted against black or gray.

Apollo knot: an upswept women's hairstyle popularized during the

Romantic era. The hairstyle contains three main parts: the front of the hair combed into a center part, the long hair in the back of the head piled up into a bun, and little curls that frame the face.

Austen, Jane:(1775-1817) an English female author who wrote such novels as

Sense and Sensibility,

Pride and Prejudice, and

Emma; although she lived before the Victorian era, her work did not become truly become famous until after her death when her nephew published

A Memoir of Jane Austen in 1869. Today both

Neo-Victorians and mainstream society celebrate her writings.

Baby cape: a special garment reserved for mothers during their child's christening ceremony; in typical Victorian modesty and in an effort to protect the child from the elements, mothers draped the cape over their infant as they carried the child to church. Mothers also used shawls for the same purpose.

Baby yoke: the top part of what would later be the baby's

christening gown, including the neckline and the sleeves; worn separately from the gown, it was used as a cover-up or like a bib so a fresh yoke could easily replace a soiled one. Starting in the Edwardian era, parents could buy the yoke ready-made and mothers or grandmothers would then sew on the skirt of their choice.

Baroque era: a period in history that lasted from about 1600 to 1750 and was characterized by dramatic darkness in the arts and literature. The dark, fancy fashion of the time has partially influenced followers of

Gothic Lolita dress.normal">

"Bertha" neckline: a rather revealing neckline that completely exposed a woman's shoulders that was popular during the early Victorian period for evening occasions; for

Neo-Victorians, it exists mostly in the form of peasant blouses and tunics for day or eveningwear.

Birdcage: a common symbol in Victorian and Neo-Victorian accessories, especially in the form of jewelry charms, this image depicts exactly what it implies: the old-fashioned wire cages used to hold pet songbirds. Today, the symbol commonly appears on screen-printed T-shirts and shirtdresses, too.

Bloomers: originally a skirted pair of long, baggy shorts that cuffed at the ankles named after its inventor, Amelia Bloomer, who created the garment as a form of rebellion against the uncomfortable and immobilizing skirts fashion during the 1850s; later, they evolved into baggy, usually ruffled, underpants which

Neo-Victorians, especially followers of the

Gothic Lolita look, sometimes wear today. Also see

knickerbockers.

Bodice: a women's garment with a low neckline that otherwise conceals the full torso and contains some form of lacing in the front. It was worn over a

corset to conceal the corset's stiffer boning and protect the next layer of clothing from the boning of the corset. Lower-class Victorian women, especially ones regularly involved in hard manual labor, sometimes wore a bodice totally in lieu of a corset because it was much more comfortable and did not require a helper to lace it up. Many

Neo-Victorian women will wear bodices instead of corsets for the same reasons.

Bombazine: a twilled or corded fabric made from silk and/or wool used largely for

mourning suits and

mourning dresses.

Bonnet: baby's, girls', and women's puffed, brimless cap that usually laces under the chin and contains some kind of decorative trim or pattern; normally even followers of

Neo-Victorian fashion will reserve them only for costumed events, not everyday wear---except for followers of

Gothic Lolita.

Bowler: a short, felt, round men's hat was invented in 1849; also known as a "derby" or "billycock."

Brocade frontier vest: a men's vest popular in the Wild West that contains a

lapel; similar to the vests that mainstream men wear to formal occasions in this day and age but made out of coarser materials; different from the vests Victorian men wore in Eastern cities due to two fabrics: their plain fabric and absence of a pattern.

Broidery Anglaise: literally "English embroidery" that is characterized by delicate, feminine designs done in plain, white cotton; popular for

camisoles and other women's tops.

Brooch: a decorative piece of jewelry designed to be attached, usually by means of a pin-backed fastening, to a garment, such as a

cloak or

shirtwaist. Victorian brooches typically featured a

cameo, although other decorations existed. Today's brooches can be made from almost anything---metals, plastic, papers, and more.

Burlesque: a form of theatrical entertainment that generally contains sexual connotations because burlesque stars were often young, attractive women who wore "provocative" clothing, such as

fishnets, performed some kind of striptease. Burlesque theatre was frowned upon by

respectable society during the Victorian age but the costumes worn by burlesque stars have inspired many followers of

Neo-Victorian fashion.

Buster Brown suit: a little boys' smock-like suit with a top that fell just below the waist and a bottom that was slightly shorter than knee-length and revealed the bloomer pants worn underneath; like most of the children's clothing at the time, the suits tended to be dark. Some followers of

Neo-Victorian fashion dress their young sons in such suits but generally only for costumed events.

Bustle:a stiff framework worn just below the waist and over the derriere to create fullness in the back of a Victorian woman's dress; the style was designed around 1869 to mimic a horse's backside because Victorians perceived the horse as an elegant and beautiful animal. Bustles are now only worn for costumed events.

Calico: a plain-woven cotton fabric with a small, delicate pattern, like floral, all over; it was very popular in the

Wild West and is occasionally used for

Neo-Victorian garments.

Cameo: refers to both a method of carving and the jewelry produced using this method. Cameos feature a raised relief image carved from shell or ivory. The most popular types of cameos feature an erudite lady's profile on a

brooch or

choker necklace, although it is not uncommon to find cameos depicting scenes from Greek and Roman mythology.

Camisole: a sleeveless women's undergarment that fits closely to the body and usually covers most of the torso; the modern day version of the

chemise. Followers of Neo-Victorian fashion may wear both in their everyday outfits.

Cane: a curved walking stick that was often ornately decorated at the top end and, unlike today, was used by men of all ages in all forms of health. The fictitious detective Sherlock Holmes, from Sir Arthur Conan Doyle's novels, was famous for using a cane.

Capote: a felt dress hat, more commonly known as a "fedora." In today's terminology, it's often called the "Indiana Jones hat" because actor Harrison Ford wears one his famous Indiana Jones series. Male followers of the

Wild West branch of

Neo-Victorian fashion are most likely to wear these hats.

Chemise: a simple smock or shift worn closely to a woman's body to protect the skin from the

corset and outer layers from perspiration and the body's natural oils. Also see

camisole.

Choker: a women's necklace so-called because it fits tightly around the neck, as if it is "choking" the wearer; Neo-Victorian versions often contain a

cameo charm and are made with ribbon and/or dark or scarlet beads.

Christening gown: a long, white gown that infants wore, and still wear, to their christening ceremony. Followers of Neo-Victorian fashions are likely to accompany the gown with a sash, bonnet, and other forms of

flounce.

Cloak: a loose, sleeveless, and unisex garment worn over indoor clothing as a form of outerwear like an overcoat. Many Neo-Victorian cloaks come in black, purple, or red velvet or velour.

Corset: a stiff and very structured garment designed to tighten the torso to achieve the coveted

hourglass figure, with reports or at least rumors of Victorian women sporting 14'' and 15'' waists. The corset gets its shape from boning, either whalebone or sturdy reeds, that was so strong that it could impair a woman's breathing and actually displace her organs. Often another person was needed to lace the wearer into the corset and the wearer had very limited movement, meaning that lower-class women rarely wore them. The corset is perhaps the garment most commonly associated with the

Victorian era. Modern-day corsets do not squeeze the waist to the extent that their predecessors did and usually only resemble Victorian corsets with their style of lacing. Also see

bodice and

neck corset.

Crape: a hard-spun silk fabric with a gauzy, crimpy texture that was commonly dyed black and used for

mourning dresses.

Crinoline: a stiffened

petticoat or even steel structure that became fashionable around 1850 because it gave a skirt a large, bell shape. Female followers of

Neo-Victorian fashion are more likely to wear a single hoop attached to the hem of their dress or plain petticoats to achieve the same effect.

Dagger: a double-edged blade in the form of a knife that was typically used as a weapon during the Victorian age, although many followers of

Neo-Victorian will use them merely as accessories because of their ornately decorated handles.

Diary: a small, leather notebook that Victorian girls and women used (and continue to use) to record their thoughts, feelings, and aspirations. Female followers of

Neo-Victorian fashion may own one in leather or one in regular cardboard but with symbols such as

skulls or

birdcages printed on the cover.

Dickens, Charles: British author of novels that even today remain popular not only with

Neo-Victorians but also mainstream Western culture:

The Tale of Two Cities and

A Christmas Carol. The term "Dickensian" often describes something dark and grimy, like the environment described in Dickens'

Industrial Revolution era London.

Duel: a form of combat between two gentlemen that began when one man slapped the other in the face with his glove. Normally duels were enacted as a matter of preserving honor or respectability. During the Victorian era, it was common for each man to use a pistol.

Drawers: a type of underwear that covers the lower part of the body and part of the legs, up to about knee-length; often, especially during the Victorian era, they are crotchless.

Edwardian era: marked the period under King Edward VII's reign in England (1901-1910), following the death of Queen Victoria. The period was characterized by more steam-lined and comfortable versions of Victorian fashions, Art Nouveau, many technological innovations, and overall elegance. It was also known as the "belle époche," or Beautiful Age.

Face powder: a type of cosmetic powder used to lighten the complexion (because pale, even sickly, complexions were highly coveted during the

Victorian era), minimize shine caused by bodily oils, and set foundation. During the Victorian era, face powder always came with a powder puff for application.

Fishnets: a type of women's hosiery whose pattern resembles the nets used by fishermen to catch sea creatures; during the

Victorian era, fishnets only came in

stockings but in this day and age, they are available as tights.

Flounces: frilly decorative aspect of girls' and women's clothing; often present in the clothing worn by

porcelain dolls.

Frock coat: a formal double-breasted coat originally designed for Victorian men to wear for evening occasions; characterized by knee-length skirts at the base and a center vent in the back; often contains silk-faced lapels and other elegant details.

Frontier: see

Wild West.

Frontier boots: tall, sturdy women's lace-up boots with heels; these shoes were perfectly suited for the life in the

Wild West, or

frontier.

Gambler shirt: A Wild West classic, these shirts were the predecessors to modern-day work shirts; they have long-sleeves and plain buttons up the front and are made in a breathable fabric, likely cotton. Victorian men who lived on the

frontier often wore them with suspenders,

jeans, boots, and a hat of some sort.

Garter: an article of clothing used to hold up stockings to prevent them from falling; they were tied right below the knee; many of today's garters, however, contain elastic instead of ties and are more decorative than practical because most modern stockings contain elastic or rubber that allow them to be worn alone. It is common for followers of Gothic Lolita fashion to make their garters visible by wearing shorter dresses, whereas during the

Victorian era, garters were always covered in polite company at public events. Predictably then, today's garters tend to be much more ornate and may contain lace, feathers, flowers, sequins, and any other number of decorations.

Gentleman: an honorable man who adhered to the rules of

respectability and chivalry. Ideally, he was a devout Christian, a dedicated husband, a good father, and was especially kind and gentle towards women. During the

Victorian era, he also participated in activities considered suitable for a gentleman, such as fox hunting, horseback riding, or playing badminton or croquet. In terms of professions, he was likely a doctor, schoolteacher, or lawyer.

Gloves: a type of garment that covers the hands to keep them warm, protect them from the sun, or simply to complement an outfit; during the

Victorian era, leather gloves were quite popular but now followers of Victorian fashion will order them in any range of fabrics, often with ornate decorations. Respectable woman never went into public without gloves during the Victorian era, removing them only to dine.

Goth: a dark, romantic, and nostalgic subculture that began in the early 1980s shortly after the age of punk rock. The subculture embraces many of the beliefs, practices, and fashions of the Middle Ages, European Renaissance,

Victorian era, and

Edwardian era, with a strong appreciation for courtesy,

respectability, art, and literature. Mainstream society often confuses Goth with punk because subcultures developed around the same time and followers of both subcultures tend to wear a lot of black. Some people choose to mix influences into their wardrobes to create a "punk goth" hybrid, causing further confusion for mainstream society.

Gothic Lolita: also known as Loli-Goth, this form of Neo-Victorianism originated in Japan during the 1980s and remains popular primarily with girls and young women today. The style, which seeks to emulate the innocence and femininity of

porcelain doll dress, incorporates elements of the Rococo, Victorian, and Edwardian periods as well as

Goth influences. Knee-length dress with

petticoats or

crinolines, and

knee-high socks worn with

Mary Janes or other child-like shoes represent the typical look. Black and white is the look's prevailing color combination and lace and ribbon are common trimmings.

Hand fan: a lady's accessory used to cool oneself or complement an outfit; in the

Victorian era, they were usually made from highly decorated leaves or sticks with lace, silk, or parchment; Victorian women commonly used fans to flirt with potential suitors by concealing their entire face except for their eyes, which they used to communicate. In this day and age, many fans contain a plastic stem instead of a wooden one.

Handkerchief: a small square, sometimes rectangular, piece of cloth used to wipe perspiration or the nose; all

respectable ladies owned one. As a form of flirtation, it was common for a

lady to drop one on the floor near a potential suitor who then picked it up if he was interested in her.

Harem trousers: wide, loose women's pants based upon the garments worn by Middle Eastern dancers that were popular among artists and bohemians in the

Edwardian age.

Hobble skirt: a confining skirt that is long and narrow and tightly fitted around the ankles; it first came into fashion in the 1880s and then re-emerged in the 1980s.

Hoopskirt: a giant ringed

petticoat worn under a dress to give it a very large bell shape; whalebone or rope originally made up the rings but now most hoopskirts contain nylon rings instead. The fashion is most commonly associated with the American Civil War.

Hourglass figure: considered the ideal woman's figure during the Victorian age, this figure emphasized an ample bust and ample hips with a very small, defined waist best achieved by wearing a tightly laced whalebone

corset.

Industrial Revolution: a period that began in the 1780s but did not fully impact the United States and Britain until the 1830s and 1840s, when every level of society felt its influence; the period was characterized by heavy manufacturing, urbanization, pollutions, improvements in transportation, and changes in agriculture. The factory is the symbol most commonly associated with this period because it was such a dangerous environment to work, it employed so many people with jobs; and it provided so many people with mass-produced goods that previously had to be hand-made. During the

Victorian era, once industrialization had truly taken off, social reformers began to question such related matters as labor conditions, merchandise quality, and consumer safety.

Charles Dickens is famous for writing about factory conditions and city life.

Ink pen: a writing utensil that became popular during the latter part of the

Victorian era, during a time when writing letters to acquaintances, friends, and loved ones was a common form of communication. The pens, which still exist today but are less likely to be made from metal, contain a hallow inside used to store ink. Many followers of Neo-Victorian fashion may own an ink pen, or "fountain pen," made from plastic.

Jeans: a staple in the Wild West, these denim men's pants were sturdy enough to endure wear and tear. Levi Strauss invented them during the 1850s, amidst the California Gold Rush, and therefore made the lives of many miners easier---or, rather, less hard---by providing something to protect their legs as they worked. Since then, jeans have evolved into a wide variety of different forms for both men and women but followers of

Neo-Victorian fashion tend to wear jeans of a certain style: high-waisted, perhaps lace-trimmed or with suspenders, antique-looking buttons, and other features reminiscent of the

Victorian and

Edwardian eras.

Key charms: decorative pieces in the shape of what are now considered antique door keys that are attached to chains or clasps or earring hooks and worn as jewelry. The key is a common symbol in Victorian art and culture; it signifies something pure, something that has the power to unlock truth.

King Edward VII: the monarch who ruled England after Queen Victoria's death in 1901; his reign is referred to as the

Edwardian era.

Knee-high socks: a knitted or woven article of clothing that covers the feet and calves, all the way to the knee; the garment is popular with followers of the

Gothic Lolita look, who may them in white or black with details such as

skulls or

lace trim.

Knickerbockers: men's or boys' loose, knee-length trousers; also known as "short pants" or "knee pants."

Lace: a type of fabric characterized by open holes that are made by looping, twisting, or braiding a thread to another thread separately from a backing fabric; linen and silk were commonly used to make lace during the

Victorian era but now cotton is the most common material; lace typically decorates the dresses of

porcelain dolls and fine women's blouses and dresses. It is often used in

Gothic clothing and accessories, as well.

Lady: a woman who puts her honor above all else and follows the rules outlined by

respectability. Ideally, she is a devout Christian and devoted mother and wife who remains a virgin until marriage. Once she is married, she only consents to have sex with her husband when they have plans for another child but she never initiates the act and certainly does not have sex for pleasure. Her conservative clothing would reflect her sexual modesty. In terms of profession, a lady would most likely govern over her home, although schoolteachers and nurses with the appropriate character could be considered ladies, as well. She would not, however, seek further career advancement. Also see

gentleman.

Lapel: the folded flaps of cloth on a jacket, coat, or, at least during the Victorian age (unlike most of their modern counterparts), vests.

Leg of Mutton Sleeve: also known at the

gigot sleeve, resembles the shape of a sheep's hind leg, with a wide, puffed top and narrow, fitted bottom; came in solid colors or, occasionally, classic patterns like stripes and delicate flowers.

Little Lord Fauntleroy suits: named after the novel Little Lord Fauntleroy by Frances Hodgson Burnett, this formal, long-sleeved boys' suit featured

velvet, a sash,

knickerbockers, and a

lace collar.

Locket: a necklace worn by girls and women that could open and close like a small, latched box; often made out of silver. Commonly, girls stored a small photograph of a family member, such as their mother or grandmother, and women stored a photograph of their beau or even a small lock of his hair.

Mad Hatter: a male character from

Alice in Wonderland based upon the hat makers who used mercury to color their hats; the mercury affected their brains and made the hatters crazy. Many male followers of

Neo-Victorian fashion imitate the Mad Hatter's dress---a top hat, formal suit, and

pocket watch---for formal or costumed occasions.

Mantelet: a short sleeveless garment, shorter than a cloak, worn by Victorian women.

Mary Janes: dress shoes with a single strap going horizontally across the foot to meet a buckle; originally a type of shoe designed for little girls but later became popular with adult women, modified only slightly to include a heel; often worn with the

Gothic Lolita look.

Masquerade: a fancy ball or party at which all the guests wear masks and ornate eveningwear; a relatively common form of entertainment for the upper-classes during the

Victorian age.

Monocle: an instrument used to aid the visually impaired, primarily men; unlike

spectacles, this instrument contains a single lens; now normally reserved only for costumed events.

Mourning dress: a black dress that girls and woman wore following the death of a family member or close friend; often made from

bombazine and contained

lace details; apparently after the death of

Queen Victoria's husband, girls and women across England wore mourning dress for a year, perhaps influencing the modern perception that the

Victorian era was a dark period.

Morning suit: a men's black suit worn during a grieving period, usually after the death of a family member or close friend; the suit is worn with black

gloves and a black necktie. Following the death of his wife, he must wear the suit for one year.

Neck corset: a specialized

corset that fits around the neck to better one's posture; the Victorians greatly prized good posture and considered it a sign of elegance.

Neo-Victorian: literally meaning "new Victorian," this subculture incorporates fashion elements from the

Victorian and

Edwardian eras mixed with modern modifications, like zippers or skirts much shorter than would have actually been worn during those two periods in history Some followers of this fashion will also adopt habits or even lifestyles similar to those practiced during the Victorian and Edwardian eras.

Oxford shoes: a kind of enclosed, leather shoe with laces. Historically, they were simple, men's shoes but many female

Neo-Victorian followers will wear them but with feminine details: high-heels, glitter laces, etc.normal">

Parure: an expensive set of matching jewelry reserved for royalty and wealthier women during the Victorian age. Such a set, whose name comes from the French word for "adornment," might include a tiara, a necklace, a

cameo, comb, pins, rings, bracelets, a brooch, a fine belt clasp, and more.

Parasol: a sun umbrella, often made from lace, silk, or paper, that shaded Victorian girls and women to preserve their pale complexions; Neo-Victorian followers may carry around closed parasols on their wrists more as a visual accessory than an actual sun umbrella. This parasol below is of the Chinese variety.

Pearls: also known as an "oyster's tear," these round objects are the products of a living mollusk that were used in all types of women's jewelry during the Victorian era, from necklaces to earrings, and even as decorations on clothing, sometimes in the form of elegant buttons. During the Victorian era, pearls were extremely expensive and therefore only available to the highest classes of society; now many followers of Neo-Victorian fashion wear faux pearls made out of plastic or other synthetic materials.

Pelerine collar: a popular style of women's

lace collar in the Romantic era that modestly spread over the shoulders, almost like a mini-cape; it commonly appears in the dresses of porcelain dolls and followers of

Gothic Lolita fashion.

Petticoat: a women's undergarment that is worn under a dress to enhance the skirt's shape; often women would wear layers of them, instead of just one, to create a full, bell skirt. The petticoat is also known as an "underskirt" or "jupon."

Pistol: a handgun that

gentlemen often used to

duel; many of today's replicas of Victorian pistols are made out of plastic and are not actually weapons but rather purely decorative.normal">

Pocket watch: a watch designed to be worn in the pocket; they usually contain a chain (called a "fob") that permits them to be fastened to a waistcoat or

lapel. A hinged metal cover protects the face of the watch. Male followers of the

Steam punk look are likely to wear pocket watches.

Poe, Edgar Allen: a Gothic writer of spooky tales who spent the majority of his life in Richmond, Va. and died during the first part of the

Victorian era; today, his most widely known work is his poem "The Raven." Many followers of the

Goth subculture revere his short stories and poems.

Porcelain doll: a doll popular with little girls during the Victorian age whose face, hands, and feet are made out of china, a type of ceramic; the body is usually plush, although sometimes it too is made out of china. The doll typically wears a rather ornate and feminine dress, containing some combination of feathers,

pearls,

cameos,

lace, and/or ribbon. Girls and women who follow the

Neo-Victorian style often collect these type of dolls or try to emulate their dress.

Pinstripes: thin, vertical stripes (generally in black, gray, or white) that originally decorated Victorian men's suits but now exist in a wide range of both men's and women's Neo-Victorian fashions---from vests to skirts to

trousers and more.

Princess gown: a softer, less structured gown that came into fashion toward the end of the

Victorian era in great contrast to the structured dresses so commonly associated with the period; the gown featured a small, white collar buttons down the front, and a full skirt.

Queen Victoria: the queen of England from 1837 to 1901 after whom the

Victorian era is named after; she famously started many fashion trends, such as the white wedding gown.

Quill: a bird's feather that was snipped at the tip and fashioned into a writing utensil; accompanied by an inkwell and later replaced by the

ink pen.

Romantic era: an era that began about a decade before the

Victorian era and overlapped with it up until about 1900; it encouraged emancipation, creativity, and experimentation in art and literature. The fashions associated with the era tend to be flowing, ample, and beautiful.

Regency silhouette: the silhouette, normally the profile, achieved by wearing an ornate dress and several layers of

petticoats for a full skirt.

Respectability: a bourgeois concept popular during the Victorian age that encouraged modesty, courtesy, and strong adherence to etiquette; evident in Neo-Victorian garments' conservative cut.

Worth, Charles: an influential English designer who established the House of Worth in 1857; famous for dressing society women in America and Europe and currently recognized as the "father of haute couture."

Sailor suit: a little boy's uniform that came in navy blue and white and was often worn with a matching hat. It was based upon the uniforms naval men and other seamen wore.

Shirtwaist: a women's version of the men's style in blouselike form; the first mass-produced, ready-made women's garment.

Skull: literally the set of bones that encase the human brain; a popular symbol in

Neo-Victorian fashion, along with other symbols related to death and mortality.

Smoking pipe: an instrument, usually wooden, that Victorian men used to smoke tobacco.

Spats: boys' shoe covers, often made from felt, that were designed to keep shoes clean.

Spectacles: eyeglasses with very circular rims and lenses; also called "granny glasses." This accessory is most commonly associated with followers of Steam punk fashion.

Steam punk: a branch of the subculture

Neo-Victorianism that embraces fashion and literature popular during the age when steam was the primary source of heat and power; the theme of invention prevails. Literature commonly associated with this subculture are novels by H.G. Wells and Jules Verne.

Stockings: knitted covering that provide coverage and often warmth for the legs and feet. During the Victorian age, stockings was typically rather simple---such as plain black wool---because long dresses concealed it in public. Neo-Victorian hosiery, however, comes in a much wider variety of designs and colors (

fishnets, purple, and red are all popular) because Neo-Victorian dresses tend to be shorter and more revealing than their predecessors.

Suspenders: fabric, sometimes leather, straps pulled over the shoulders to hold up boys' and men's trousers; they were particularly popular among working class men and men out in the Wild West. Now, even female followers of Neo-Victorian fashion may wear them but often to hold up a small, ruffled skirt instead of trousers.

Top hat:normal">a tall men's hat, often black, made famous by Abraham Lincoln; also known as a baron hat.

Velvet: a type of tufted, luxurious fabric with a distinctively soft texture, originally made from silk but now often made from polyester. It was very popular in the Victorian era for upper-class women and remains popular for followers of Neo-Victorian fashion who may use it in everything from cloaks to bags to scarves.

Victorian era: a period known for its elegant fashions, sexual modesty, and societalpenchant for respectability; named after Queen Victoria because the period coincided with her reign and because she was an influential fashion figure of the time. normal">

Wild West: everything related to the history, folklore, and lifestyle of the Western United States from about the 1849 California Gold Rush to 1900, or the latter part of the

Victorian era.Most of the fashion associated with the Wild West was simpler and more comfortable than the clothes worn in the Eastern American cities at the time because life out on the frontier was brutally hard work for the farmers, ranchers, and miners who often barely survived there. Here are examples of cowboy boots, shoes often worn by cattle ranchers during the time; the shoes still exist today in various forms.