St. John, Virgin Islands Vacation

St. John, known by the locals as "Love City" is one of the smallest islands in the American Virgin Islands. From the southeast end you have views of Tortola and other islands in the BVI's (British Virgin Islands). Seventy-five percent of the island is part of a National Park, leaving much of its landscape untouched. It's the perfect place to go if you want to escape your busy, noise and cement filled day-to-day life. You will find there is a very laid back vibe with a total population between 3000-4000 people, aside from Carnivale which festivities run for about a month culminating on July 4^th with a party closing down the roads when they only have a handful of roads on the island to begin with!

To get to St. John, you must land at the airport on St. Thomas and take an approximate twenty minute ferry ride over. You can depart from either Charlotte Amalie, which is usually very crowded due to the day trippers from cruise ships docking there as well as the large shopping district. (Duty free on both islands.) Your other option is leaving from Red Hook, which I believe is a bit further from the airport but much less crowded. In July while I was there for Canivale, the fare was $15.00 per person from the airport to the Red Hook ferry. After the plane ride, and adjusting to the heat in my airplane clothes it is actually nice to take a decent air conditioned ride before taking a sun filled boat ride. The ferry had two levels, I always sit on top. Not only for the views but for the breeze as well!

Entering the port at St. John you are arriving in Cruz Bay. There is a webcam here where many people write messages in the sand adjacent to the dock. You're here! If you haven't made arrangements already, there are many car rental places within walking distance. I have used Cool Breeze and Conrad Sutton and had no problems. You must rent a four wheel drive! I repeat: You must rent a four wheel drive if you want to get around; the hills and turns are very sharp and steep with dramatic drops on the edge of some of the roads. There are many wonderful beaches that roads have not even been paved to access them. Very rough roads are a great part of the adventure, if you know what you're doing and making sure to drive with much caution. The speed limit is 30 I believe, and you will spend much of your time driving less than that. I believe there may be one clear straight away on the island. But no worries, you're on island time! The slogan among the islands, once you get there you will understand.

There are not as many commercial places to stay like on St. Thomas, as St. John is still much more underdeveloped in comparison. You will still find shopping complexes like Mongoose Junction and Wharfside Village. There is great dining and boutiques outside of these complexes on the surrounding streets. The west end, Cruz Bay side is where the majority of tourists are. The east end is the Coral Bay side, however this is the more "untouched" area where you would likely rent villas (people's homes) and large estates. Most of the area is part of the National Park. Renting villas or people's houses is a common option. No matter where you stay, you can access the whole island in a day. Most of the island is a series of hillsides, and mountain peaks covered in lush green blanket sprinkled with the vibrant oranges and pinks of the flowers when in bloom. The island is very interesting; one side of the island is moist and green while the other is more arid and has many cacti. If the weather is cloudy on the wet side, you can drive over to the other and expect better weather.

This is a great place to snorkel, hike up cliffs and through paths that take you to very secluded beaches and to amazing views. It is quite amazing this island, the variety that is offered by nature is amazing. There are five major roads offering beach access (that doesn't mean easy!) Most of the beaches on the south west side of the island can be accessed by South Shore Road; they are not owned by the National Park. Due to boats in certain waters, fish are not as in abundance so snorkeling wouldn't be my first suggestion. Other beaches in this area also experience rougher waves than others, which again will disrupt visibility.

The Beaches on the North Shore can be accessed from North Shore Road. These beaches mainly offer the typical white sand beaches with electric blue water and perfect placement of palm trees. Here you will find Trunk Bay which is one of the most pictured beaches. It is a stunning view, crystal clear water with a reef to swim an underwater snorkel trail. This beach was purchased by the Rockefeller and given to the National Park for public use. This beach also offers the showers, bathrooms, changing areas, public telephones, picnic tables, barbeque grills and a covered pavilion for rent; you must contact the National Park in advance. Caneel Bay is also an accessible beach from this road. At one time Caneel Bay was owned also by the Rockefeller family and is a spectacular resort with golf, scuba on site, as well as other water sports and boat trips with a great restaurant and a wonderful gift shop. There is also great snorkeling around the area. I took a trip with one of their dive groups and snorkeled above them. The trip was amazing, we went to two different locations by power boat and the scenery was insane. They took us to Congo Cay and then to Mingo Cay; truly outstanding.

If you want to go to the Salt Pond Bay Road and Lameshur Beach Road beaches you can access them from Centerline Road. Taxis will rarely go to these beaches, as you generally need the four wheel drive; absolutely on the Lameshur Beach Road. My favorite beach on St. John would have to be Salt Pond Bay. It is a fifteen minute downhill hike (but worth the uphill journey on the way back) down a dirt trail with different varieties of cacti surrounding you. Many other tropical plants such as century plants and snake plant (also known as the Mother-in-laws-tongue plant) and other trees with air roots. Once you reach the bottom, the scenery opens into this private, perfect beach. It actually offers a few picnic tables and garbage cans. Other than that this beach is secluded, sun filled and creature filled. There are two hikes you can take as well. The Lameshur Beach is an adventure to get to. Impossible to do without the four wheel drive, and still it was the bumpiest ride I have ever taken. You must drive very slow as one side is a steep drop, and the other is a dry cliff upward. A bit tight, but this is the fun of it all. It brings you to another cluster of beaches. Great Lameshur, Little Lameshur and Europa. Great Lameshur is another beautiful spot. There are trails to Europa beach. In this area there are also ruins of what appears to be a mill.

Finally the East End Road will bring you to the other side of the island. Again taxis do not come often; four wheel drive is a must. Here you could experience mangrove snorkeling which I have not and have heard there is an odor, but is an interesting experience. You can do that if you're interested at Princess Bay-go figure. One of the best reef snorkel spots on this side is Hansen Bay. If you are down on this side look for Vie's Snack Shack. Stop in for lunch, if she's open and after or before, ask Vie to snorkel across the street at her beach. There is a sign that says a $2.00 charge. Worth the experience, food it great, and as her sign says: "It's Native".

Come to St. John if you want to see paradise, as close to untouched as you can get while in the Virgin Islands. The people are friendly, the food is great and the rest of the island is perfect.