St. Patrick's Day Feature: The Origins of Corned Beef and Cabbage

Back before the days of electricity and refrigeration, one of the few ways to preserve meat for the winter season was to salt cure it. In fall, when temperatures were chilly and cold, cows were harvested, and the meat packed into wooden barrels between alternating layers of coarse salt. This salt was roughly the size of kernels of corn, hence the term "corned" beef. Salting also gives the beef its pungent, piquant flavor, and chewy fibrous texture as well.

Why salt?

Salt is excellent at removing moisture from cells via osmotic pressure. Too much salt can make us feel thirsty, as it naturally drives water from our cells. This is why salt "cures" animal flesh so effectively. It also creates an environment that is hostile to bacteria and fungus as well.

Boiling is essential in driving out salt, and tenderizing the meat. Cabbage is an excellent "wintering" vegetable because of it's high density, and it keeps well in root cellars, --artificial "caves" dug beneath ground-- hence the natural combination of corned beef and cabbage in winter. It's of interest that corned beef is rarely prepared this way any longer, but is "wet cured" in a brine solution with spices.

New York city is perhaps best known as the capital city of corned beef. St. Patrick' Day often sees New York hosting the nation's premier corned beef competitions, featuring the best of the corner deli best, including Blarney Stone, Casey's, Fitzpatrick Hotel, Grandstand, The Kettle Black and Langan's, all prime purveyors of salty beef piled mile high with hearty pickle on rye.

Corned beef and cabbage, however, similar to that served at the New York City St. Patrick's Day Parade, may have originated in the United States and only recently found its way to Ireland. Some claim that corned beef and cabbage originated in New York City, and that is why New York City is known for the best corned beef and cabbage in the world.

If you prefer to make corned beef at home, the best method is slow cooking in a crock pot, at least one hour per pound. In my own experience, that means setting everything up at night, and it should be nice and tender by morning. It's best to add the cabbage late, as it doesn't become overly mushy, or soak up too much salt and fat that way as well. Serve on authentic, chewy Jewish Rye as a bread of traditional choice, or white Kaiser rolls for a neutral flavored, crusty white wheat taste.

Oh, and don't forget the cool, frothy Guinness!