Starting Dreadlocks: What to Know Before You Lock

To Lock or Not to Lock? Tips from a Former Dreadlock-wearer

L. Carter
If you're considering starting dreadlocks, you're probably wondering what to expect along the way. Dreadlocks are - by nature - locked and become a permanent hairstyle, and you probably don't want to rush into a quick decision without having all the facts. So here are some things you should know about dreads, locks, or whatever you choose to call them, before you take the plunge, from someone who took the plunge without knowing most of this beforehand:

Dreadlocks require care and patience

Obviously dreadlocks do not form overnight. They are actually the result of hair matting, binding and locking together into rope-like structures, and this takes time. Depending on the texture of your hair, it could take a lot of time. I am mixed - half black and half white - with hair that is coarse and pretty curly. After about a year and a half of locking, some of the "locks" around my hairline still were not locked.

So depending on the texture of your hair, it could take up to two years, and maybe more, for your hair to actually form dreadlocks. During this time you'll be required to continually re-twist your hair or visit a salon and have them re-twist it for you.

Washing your hair can also become a chore. You will probably not want to wash it very often, as each wash requires thorough drying and a re-twist that can become time-consuming.

Dreadlocks can be expensive

Depending on your regular hair care routine and how you choose to maintain dreadlocks, locking can be an expensive endeavor. Before starting locks i kept my hair in two-strand twists which I did myself. The only expense I had for hair care was the hair care products I used to maintain my twists.

When I started locks, I had to visit the salon about every three weeks for a re-twist, which ran about $60 per visit. I re-twisted my locks on my own in between, but found that I got a much better result when visiting the salon.

For some people, $60 a week every few weeks may be a drop in hair care expenses, so dreadlocks may actually be a more inexpensive route; for me it was not.

Dreadlocks get dirty

As hard as you try to keep them clean, this fact is inevitable. As stated above, dreadlocks are, by nature, uncombed, matted hair that has bound together in a locked structure. Thus, hair on the inside of the structure and any residue/products that may be on it is enclosed and does not get cleaned when locks are washed.

That's why, if you ever look at the tips of dreadlocks, or cut off your locks (as I did) and look on the inside, you will see a rather unpleasant blend of product build-up even though you washed your hair regularly and tried to avoid products that cause build-up.

I know that some people use only olive oil on their locks to avoid this phenomenon, but when cutting off a portion of their locks to view the inside, report seeing this same buildup inside their locks, much to their surprise.

That's not to say that you can't keep locks looking clean; the stereotype of raggedy, unkempt locks is simply that: a stereotype. Locks can be kept neat, shiny, and relatively clean, but again, it's relatively, as what's happening on the inside of the lock may be quite different from its appearance on the outside.

If you have a naturally itchy/flaky scalp or like washing your hair often, dreadlocks may not be the best hairstyle choice

This is one fact I really wish I'd known before starting locks. For whatever reason, my scalp tends to get itchy and slightly flaky after a few days of not washing my hair. And when you have dreadlocks, it's really hard to wash your hair that often, because of the time required to dry and re-twist it, and also for the potential for pre-locks to unravel before they're actually locked. Considering the fact that locks attract buildup anyway, this resulted in a very poor result for me where my hair never really felt clean.

Make sure you or your loctician choose a locking product that is not thick or greasy when starting locks

My loctician chose beeswax, because of its binding power and the curly nature of my hair. Although this is one of the "strongest" locking products, in retrospect, it may not have been the smartest choice. Beeswax does not break down easily in water, if at all, and can end up in clumps or flakes in your locks, which you obviously don't want.

So before you lock, make sure you find a product that will be able to provide moisture, shine and some binding power to your locks without adding to the inevitable buildup that forms in locks.

For ideas on products to use, read my article on dreadlock product suggestions.

Have a picture of the size you want your dreadlocks to be, and bring this in to your loctician when starting locks

When it comes to locks, size really does matter. Although I told my loctician how small I wanted my dreadlocks, we clearly had different pictures in our minds, as what she created, looking back, was much larger than what I wanted. I should have just made it simple and brought her a picture. Because once the size is formed, there's really no going back unless you want to start all over again.

If you like to change things up often, locks may not be for you

It wasn't until I had locks that I realized how much I enjoyed the freedom of being able to do different things with my hair on a whim. Before dreadlocks I could just wear my hair curly in a ponytail, I could wear twists or braids, and I could straighten it occasionally when I felt like it (which wasn't often). Although my hair annoyed me before I locked it, after locking I missed the versatility it previously had. Obviously with locks you can create many different styles, but the fact remains that your hair is always locked.

If you change your mind midstream, you will have to cut most of your hair off

About a year and a half into locking my hair, I decided it just wasn't working. My locks were bigger than I wanted them to be, caring for them was a chore, I could never seem to get them as clean as I wanted, and I missed being able to do different things with my hair. So after going back and forth about it for a couple of months, one day I just sat down in front of my bathroom mirror with a pair of scissors and went to work. And it was work.

I pulled each lock apart from the root as far as I could before I simply couldn't pull anymore. And then I'd cut the rest off (and see what was actually inside the lock). As I mentioned earlier, some locks around my hairline weren't actually locked at all. Other sections were locked from the tip to about halfway up. Others in the middle of my scalp were locked almost all the way to the root, and this is where the severe cutting really came into play. After cutting those locks off I had about an inch or two of hair left, and had to cut the rest of my hair to that length (or lack thereof) to match.

Wow. When I was done, my hair was shorter than it had been in many years, curly, kind of goofy looking, but in a way I was happy. I'd forgotten what my hair was like and I was happy to have it back. Since then I've experimented with a variety of styles, including scarves (I make liberal use of these, because my hair is still too short to pull back into a ponytail), cornrows and now, once again, twists.

For years I dreamed of having dreadlocks and felt pangs of envy every time I saw someone walk by with a beautiful set of locs or saw pictures of loc-wearers in magazines. I wanted what they had, and so I got it. But once i had it, I realized it just wasn't for me. I wanted what they had for a day or a week, but not as a permanent hairstyle. Maybe that will change one day, and I'll start locks again, (making sure to bring in a picture of the size I want to my loctician)! But for now, I still think locks are absolutely gorgeous, but on someone else.

And if you shrug or at least don't cringe at most of the drawbacks I've named, then I'd encourage you to plunge ahead, as locks are probably for you!

Published by L. Carter

One of Associated Content's Top 1000 Content Producers in 2009 and 2010, LC writes for major print and online news media. She has published hundreds of articles, interviewed some of the most prominent fig...  View profile

  • Dreadlocks require care and patience
  • If you like to change things up often, locks may not be for you
  • If you change your mind midstream, you will have to cut most of your hair off
Dreadlocks reportedly originated in ancient Egypt, around 3500 years before the birth of Christ.

17 Comments

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  • Kimberly4/12/2012

    If you really want locks and you would like to see how you would like them and how you can tolerate them, wear yarn braids.

  • L. Carter2/25/2011

    R.L., there's no right or wrong reason for starting dreadlocks, just as there's no right or wrong way to start locks, and it's presumptuous and inappropriate to judge others as if you're an authority on how dreadlocks "should" be done, which you are not. Dreadlocks are a personal matter for each individual. For me, the desire to lock was a combination of admiring the look of the style as well as the values of patience, commitment, growth and non-conformity that it represented. My journey was not a long one, but I'm glad I made it for the time I did. Someone else may have an entirely different reason for starting dreadlocks, and an entirely different experience, which is no more or less acceptable or justified than mine. Your elitist, exclusionary viewpoint is totally at odds with the true spirit of love and acceptance that defines locks. As someone who has been locked for 15 years, you should know that.

  • R.L. Fox2/25/2011

    After reading your opinion on locking, I've come to the conclusion that your initial interest was more for vanity than for soul. Hair locking has been a phenom when time began. And with today's social conformity, most had the idea of locking their hair with your concept. Not so. Locking is a spiritual endeavor. It's the epiphany of nature's call. You can't be intrigue with some one else attraction and make it your own. This comes from inside you and you alone.Which means, the things you had listed are moot if your heart is not in it. I've been locked for fifteen years and there hasn't been one moment of considering cutting my hair. It's natural beauty is unmeasurable. And though there are trials and tribulations, this hasn't change any of my love for it's beauty. There is no up side or downside to doing this. It only comes from the heart.

  • Less is More1/13/2011

    Well said L. Carter. I love that you shared your experience without diminishing the beauty of dreadlocks. I have had locks for several years, and yes, the first 2 to 3 years take diligence and patience. I have loved the process more than anything. It's a sculpture everyday. Since beginning my own, on my fine blonde hair, I have put them in all 4 of my childrens hair (only 2 still have them), and several friends'. I get paid to maintain them, which really is fun for me.
    From my experience, wax is one of the worst things you can put in your hair. I can't even describe what I combed out of one friend's 3 year old locks because of the stickiness of the wax. Also, the felting tool is counter productive. It tears the hair, and over time the locks have these funny clumps that seem to begin falling off. My favorite method is moderate backcombing to begin the locks, the monthly maintenance (for the first year) with a .9mm crochet hook to pull in the loose hairs and tighten wea

  • Drama mama12/29/2010

    Did you know when Bob Marley died, They found dead things and mold in his hair!Most of the time I dont like dreads, But I happen to like the boy with dreads right now.And HE IS HOT!!!He also asked me out and I nearly cried.I said yes and he later asked me to marry him!! <3

  • My hubby's locs3/23/2010

    Ive done my husbands locs from his starters till now that they are a little longer than shoulder length now, but to keep from having that buildup in your hair, considering my husbands hair was very thick hair an about 3inches maybe a little bit longer, I just used a spray bottle with striaght water an just twisted them up, an yes in the beginning yes I had to retwist him alot after washing an what not but as time went on he locked in about 6 months they where no longer coming apart when washed, but water is just fine, an you can rub some type of natural oil on the outside to keep them from looking dull, sometimes i mixed a little evoo into the water when i would do his retwist..

  • brandon10/12/2009

    does anybody have any tips on things that I can do to help my hair lock. i heard lemon juice and water. is this true

  • kennesha8/26/2009

    you do not have to cut off your locks when you decide 2 change your mind!!! ive had locks for a year and a half now and ive taken down 2 in the back just to see if i could, took about 15 minutes a piece to do so but with detangler spray and a rat tail comb i did it. plus there was no build up because i didnt use beeswax, and i use an apple cider vinegar and water (1/2&1/2) mixture to rinse any residue from my scalp, then organic lock and twist gel from time to time. sometimes i just twist with water. hope this helps

  • Jennifer Waite8/14/2009

    Very interesting tips!

  • sanders2/11/2009

    i would like to have you contact me at srobi73@yahoo.com to have a lot of info okn my dredds, i just started them about three months ago, and they are coming along quite well. they are growing so fast i have to go the beautician every week if not 2 weeks.

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