Summer Sipping with Two Light "Kabinett" Rieslings from Germany

Summer generally brings me back to the rieslings I have ignored during the cold New England winter months. Here we will sample and review two modestly-priced "Kabinett"-style rieslings, one from the Rheinhessen and one from the Niederhausen areas of Germany.

Review: Fritz Windisch Gau-Biscofsheimer Kellersberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken

What a challenging wine the German riesling is to get a handle on... start with the names alone: here we have the Fritz Windisch Gau-Biscofsheimer Kellersberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken from Rheinhessen, Germany. Aw, c'mon, what's so difficult in all that?!

Well, let's start with the most notable clues: first you know it is a "Riesling". "Trocken" tells you the wine is dry; and "Kabinett" says it is made from just-ripened grapes, usually in a lighter style. So here you have it: a light, dry riesling. Everything else provides more particulars about the region, vineyard and winemaker.

In this case, the Fritz Windisch Gau-Biscofsheimer Kellersberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken is a quite-affordable, widely-available style of dry riesling. We are trying a newly-released young bottling.

In the glass, it shows almost transparent, with just a vanilla cast. Served just cooler than room temperature, aromas show mild overgrown hay, with just a touch of funk, like the hay was cut a day or two ago. Acidic, citrus overtones are present too.

On the palate, you encounter a fully up-front experience, lemon and acid and very light sugar in the front of your mouth. The acids don't really clench your jaws, and the fruit doesn't really fill your palate. A lightly sweet, fairly dilute, lemonade-style riesling. Finish is fast, though clean.

Interesting experience, so two stars - not one I'd especially seek to repeat, so we can't give it a third star.

Find Fritz Windisch Riesling at WineZap.

Review: Weingut Jakob Schneider Riesling Kabinett

Weingut Jakob Schneider Riesling Kabinett, from the Niederhausen area in Germany, is a modestly-priced dry riesling. I became interested in it because Terry Theise - a well-regarded riesling critic and importer - called it the one wine he would reach for if someone asked him to "encapsulate why you do what you do".

The Schneider Riesling Kabinett is made primarily from Niederhauser Rosenberg grapes, with some Kirschheck. It arrives in a one-litre bottle, no punt, with a synthetic cork and no capsule on the neck. The bottle is not a thing of beauty, but let's see what the wine has to offer...

In the glass, it is light and transparent, but with a definite golden yellow hue - almost flourescent, in fact. The nose is potent and engaging - sleek, shiny metallic, lightly sweet and citrus, with a suggestion of wet slate; phenomenal balance across the olfactory region!

On the palate, it is full and round in the middle, bringing a touch of sweetness and apple in first, with very light acids pulling in behind. Sweet stone continues on, beginning a long cascade to the round - just lightly citrus - finish. Three stars - I'll return to it - with a plus for its uncanny balance on each dimension: visually, aromatically and taste. Yummy. Very good value too.

I did not find the cherry, violets or wisteria that Theise mentions, but I will agree with his assessment on the sleek (not sinewy) stylishness. He suggests three to 12 years of aging; I cannot argue with that possibility, but I also could not suggest you forego the pleasures this wine offers in its youth as well.

Find Schneider Riesling Kabinett at WineZap.