At the time I was a smoker and in pretty good shape. But surfing a few hours a day I became winded and smoking wasn't helping me catch any waves. I quit smoking and concentrated on catching waves. Being in the ocean all day, Oops I meant a few hours a day, OK I surfed more than a few hours a day. Well anyway I was out in nature all day, the waves seemed to beat the crap out of me. I started to mellow out and became more laid-back. It was almost like the ocean chopped that chip off my shoulder. No longer did I have a negative attitude, seriously I became more positive, Surfing built my self esteem back up pretty fast. I was no longer making excuses for my life and why I acted the way I did. I was more productive, I had a better appetite. I also started to notice that I was trying to feed my body better fuel because it wouldn't run on fast food or junk food. Just a hint. I believe it helped clear up my thinking. You might say it helped me become an adult.
Before I started surfing most people would try to stay away from me. After about a year or so of surfing everyday. People seemed to be curious about my life and found that I was actually OK. I believe that when I was younger I was probably hanging around the wrong crowd and not knowing any better I just emulated their attitude. You can improve your attitude by finding an activity that challenges you, brings you joy and improves your over all health, Just surfing did for me. Its easy just keep tiring new things. You will find something that enhances your life If I did anyone can.
Published by Rik Rodriguez
Education and Experience US Academy of Health Sciences Graduate Combat Medic, Certified Surgical Technician, Certified Nurses Aid, CPR Certified, American Red Cross Lifeguard Certified 25 years of... View profile
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