Tampa's Cuban Restaurants along Boliche Boulevard

Columbus Avenue in Tampa is known for its array of Spanish-Cuban restaurants, so much so it has a nick-name of "Boliche Boulevard". For those unfamiliar with the term, boliche is a beef roast, also known as an "eye-round", stuffed with chorizo sausage. More about specific menu items later, but first a note about Tampa-Cuban food.

Tampa is, of course, the home of many with Cuban roots, coming here as part of the cigar industry at or before the turn of the twentieth century. Cuban restaurants are, for the most part, known for excellent food and low prices, all with a family-friendly atmosphere. There are exceptions, the Columbia Restaurant was started in the old Cuban community, Ybor [pronounced "ee-bore"] City, at the turn of the century, has expanded to seven locations and the prices are higher than my criteria will allow, Valencia Gardens, on the fringe of downtown, is known for municipal movers and shakers' frequenting its tables. The food is excellent, but, again, not cheap enough for me!

When we first moved to Tampa, twenty-five years ago, my family and I had a favorite Cuban restaurant, Annie's on Armenia Avenue. It was there that we were introduced to fileteSalteado, a beef dish with Chinese antecedents, with sautéed onions, green peppers, fresh garlic, mushrooms, diced fried potatoes, chorizo, splashed with a hearty red wine, Ropa Vieja (literally old clothes), in which the beef is shredded, sautéed and simmered with onions, green peppers and tomatoes, Palomilla steak, cut very thin and topped with chopped onions. (There is also the milianesa steak, usually the same pounded-thin beef filet but lightly breaded and with a spicier sauce.) We were also introduced to a dish that is unique to this area's Cuban restaurants. Russian Trout is sautéed sea trout with lots of herbs and light breading on top, as well as crumbled egg. All of these fabulous and, to us, exotic dishes were accompanied by plantains, a banana-type fruit, sweet and wonderful, that is either fried or baked. A side dish was, often a black bean and white rice combination called moros y cristianos, (Moors and Christians, black and white).

Alas, Annie's is no more.

But there are a number of very inexpensive Cuban restaurants, all with great food and none of which will cause heartburn in the pocketbook department. I have found that many people have their personal favorites. The ones that follow are mine. So there.

The criteria are the same as in previous articles on Tampa restaurants: First, I must have eaten there and been satisfied; second, the place should not be part of an impersonal chain but reflect the idiosyncrasies of the owners; third, there must be value, that is, they approach "cheap"; and, fourth, they each must be unique enough to warrant a closer look!

The first two restaurants are on "Boliche Boulevard", itself.

The Lincoln, on Columbus Avenue, is a prototype small Cuban restaurant. Opening in 1963, from the outside it is not very impressive and truthfully, the inside is hardly opulent. But the food? Excellent and your budget will not be strained. For a while, I worked nearby and lunch at the Lincoln was always a treat. Whether one has the salteado, roast pork, chicken and yellow rice or just a bowl of black beans, onions and rice, disappointment is not an option! Just save room for dessert, creamy rice pudding or the equally traditional caramelized flan custard.

A short distance away is La Teresita. The regular part of this gem is a counter that winds around the room. At any time of the day when one visits, the seats will be filled with folks enjoying (especially in the morning) toasted Cuban bread and strong Café Cubano - coffee with the strength to ensure sleeplessness for hours if not days! One may also have café con leche which is a good beginner version. If you want to go a little upscale, you can eat at Capdevila's at La Teresita, a more formal restaurant at the same location. Here waiters in formal shirts bring the same lovely and aromatic platters of comfort food.

Years ago, the Latam was a store-from restaurant on Columbus Avenue that was known for good food at ridiculously low prices, but in a, frankly, dismal and shoddy ambiance. Some 15 or 16 years ago it moved from Boliche Boulevard and relocated to Ybor City, in the old Centro Asturiano building on lower Nebraska Avenue. The story of the Asturianos is a fascinating glimpse of early Tampa and Ybor City, but for now, let me just say that the Latam resides in a beautifully preserved, 400-seat basement cantina with a 42-foot marble-and-onyx bar, and its original tin-stamped ceiling. It is best and more fun to visit this location with a large group, partaking of heaping portions of food and pitchers of tasty Sangria.

Finally, while you are in the Ybor district, go over to Carmine's. Located in a vintage brick building in the heart of historic Ybor City is one of the most popular restaurants around. Wooden floors, an original tin ceiling and walls decorated with nostalgic memorabilia create an atmosphere of rustic ambiance and old world charm. My wife fears that it is likely not the cleanest joint in town, but a great variety of loyal local patrons gather here for genuine Cuban sandwiches -- smoked ham, roast pork, Genoa salami, Swiss cheese, pickles, salad dressing, mustard, lettuce, and tomato on crispy Cuban bread. The combination of a half-sandwich and choice of black beans and rice or a bowl of Spanish soup made with sausages, potatoes, and garbanzo beans makes a hearty meal for just $7 at lunch, $8 at dinner. Main courses are led by Cuban-style roast pork, thin-cut pork chops with mushroom sauce, spaghetti with a blue-crab tomato sauce, and a few seafood and chicken platters. As an appetizer, nothing beats the Deviled Crab with hot sauce, with a cold beer or two to fight the hotness!

Warning: There are many fancy-shmancy Cuban-Spanish restaurants in Tampa, with truly gourmet meals and outstanding settings. A few immediately come to mind, such as the Columbia Restaurant which started in 1905 and now has spread to seven locations. The Columbia has paella (clams, mussels, shrimp, scallops, calamares, grouper, chicken and pork, baked with Valencia rice, extra virgin olive oil, green peppers, Spanish onions, ripe tomatoes, garlic, spices and splashed with white wine). that is outstanding, fillet of Pompano with seafood stuffing of shrimp, crabmeat, artichoke, butter and white wine, wrapped in parchment paper and baked, and all with a floor show at the original Ybor location. Similarly, one cannot go wrong with Valencia Gardens on the fringe of downtown, known as a place the movers and shakers of Tampa meet to gossip and enjoy truly special meals, everything from paella, pompano baked in parchment to great steaks. These restaurants are truly outstanding - but they are not inexpensive and certainly not cheap!

There are many other Cuban family type restaurants in Tampa. Trying them all out, one by one, is a pretty spiffy concept.

Coma bien. Buen apetito!