The Armhole: Basic Pattern Drafting Notes

This article aims to give some information on pattern drafting for tailored jackets. It is specifically concerned with the armhole ; the drafting of the armhole. There are some similarities perhaps for men and women's jackets although still obvious differences. My main aim in the article is to make some points about creating the proper armhole.

Some tailored jackets have tightness around the armhole, mainly in the underarm area. There is also an overall of which certain puffiness and thickness in the area which the tightness in the underarm is a part. I saw it in men's jackets and it possibly happens too in women's jackets. That is why this article is about common factors in women's and men's suit. The article is mainly concerned with the back area of the body.

Here are some points that are important in pattern cutting for tailoring. There is firstly the important arm depth measurement. The arm depth measurement is the measurement from the nape of the neck to the horizontal line which bisects the underarm point.It is perhaps a difficult measurement to take because of the difficulty of locating the underarm point. Note that the measurement should be taken from the nape of the neck and this is not an absolute point.

The aim is to measure the arm depth and for this a rectangle should be created. In some pattern drafting books, this rectangle is the basis for creating the arm hole. So what is this rectangle? It is the rectangle that is made thus: From the nape point down the arm depth measurement then across half the back width measurement and up to the point which intersects the across line from the nape. This rectangle can be adjusted to get proper ratios but still the rectangle is useful for getting the proper armhole line.

Generally, measurements are taken from the body of course and patterns made but this rectangle is an interesting tool used in pattern drafting. Of course there is no mention of the shoulder but there is a view that the shoulder tip point lies on a line across from the nape. Also the back pitch point which is important for sleeve movement is located on the vertical line off the back width line.

There is another point that is interesting to mention and for which a guide such as a rectangle is useful. It concerns the proper location of the nape of the neck. Indeed, you can ask yourself whether the so-called nape point is the point on the circumference line that the collar is sewn to. This seems to be correct and thus the rectangle idea is useful for locating this latter point. .

The arm depth measurement is thus an important measurement. Along with the shoulder measurement as well as the chest measurement, it is one of the main measurements, which is needed for the drafting of the armhole. I have seen very deep (to the inside) arm holes on men's suits and they are possibly on women's suits. They make you question whether the armhole line has been properly drafted. These tight armholes affect the turn of the sleeve too. There cause perhaps tightness in the underarm and an overall heaviness around the armhole area.

Some other points: There is a concept called the scale also. It is a type of guide or guide ratio for which the arm depth measurement can be gauged. In women's garments, half the bust measurement is a scale and in men's garments, half the chest measurement may be a guide or at least a high chest measurement. The arm depth measurement in some pattern drafting books was a third of this scale plus an inch approximately. Mention should also be made of how the half back width measurement is taken. The back width is taken from one underarm point to the other and then half of this measurement. Some ease is of course added on, both for design as well as general comfort.