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The Beaches of La Jolla, California

M Smorg
La Jolla is a cute little ritzy enclave on a hilly little westward jutting shoreline of San Diego between Delmar and Pacific Beach. Aside from million dollars houses and a very chic business district, it has a rugged and spectacularly eroded shoreline, well preserved submarine canyons and good surfing beaches. Here they are from north to south: (Note: The shoreline of La Jolla belongs to the San Diego-La Jolla Underwater Ecological Reserve, which means no fishing and 5 mph speed limit on motorized boats and jet skis)

Torrey Pines State Beach & Black's Beach: The best way to access Torrey Pines State Beach is from the north via Torrey Pines Road (exit west at Carmel Valley Road from I-5, then left (south) on Torrey Pines Road, where the service road branches off into the park's main entrance (open daily from 8AM - sunset) and parking lot (there is a fee of $5 per vehicle, though if you can grab one of the roadside parking spots before reaching the gate, there is no charge there but a 3 hours time limit). The northern portion of this beach can be quite crowded due to good access and good surf. The southern portion is more secluded (because it's harder to get to).

Coming in from La Jolla to the south you can also access the beach from La Jolla Shores Drive at Calle Frescota, where there is a free and handicap-accessible parking lot. You can also hike down to the beach from 2 different unimproved (and potentially dangerous) trails: the Beach Trail from the Torrey Pines Preserve, which takes you from the park's Headquarter right down to Flat Rock, and the trail from the south end of Torrey Pines Gliderport on La Jolla Shores Drive. I should note that the sandstone bluffs here aren't all that stable especially when wet, and people don't even get excited about news of land sliding sections anymore (which really ought to tell you something).

From the north entrance where the Penasquitos Lagoon flows into the ocean, the area is a very convenient refuge for nature lovers. You can sit on the black-pebbles-strewn beach near the Penasquitos outlet and spend hours watching the many varieties of waterfowls roam around the area fishing and socialize. There is a little nature trails along the Lagoon with information panels about its ecosystem strategically placed at discreet spots. There are also large public restrooms, showers, and lifeguards on duty close to the north gate.

The beach itself is about 3 miles long. Its thin stretch of sand and pebbles is sandwiched between the Pacific Ocean and the sheer (and rather crumbly) sandstone cliffs, so it is a good idea to check the tide beforehand or you might luck out and arrive at high tide when there isn't any beach but some rather rough waves crashing straight into the bluffs! On the top of the bluffs, of course, is Torrey Pines State Reserve with its Rangers' Headquarter (with free WiFi access!) and hiking trails. Practically everything from where the Penasquitos Lagoon drains into the ocean south to Torrey Pines Golf Course is protected, so no souvenir gathering!

The north section of the beach (between Flat Rock to the south and Penasguitos Lagoon) is good for swimming and surfing. I'm afraid the beach here is made of more pebbles than sand, though. For a good sandy stretch, you'd have to go to the southern section that is known to the locals as Black's Beach. This is the stretch directly below Torrey Pines Golf Course between the Gliderport to the south and Flat Rock to the north that is known for its nudist patrons and great surfing (and vicious rip currents). I don't know if the nudists there have anything to do with it, but the park has really been keen on keeping this section of the beach free of amenities like restroom or improved trail or fire grate or lifeguard service. It makes for enchanting seclusion (the golfers can't see down to the beach. Whoever designed that golf course probably came up to look at the area when it was foggy and didn't realize what spectacular shoreline he was presented with... and wasted all of it in a brilliantly successful effort at building an ocean-side public links that is nearly totally devoid of any view of the sea!).

I should, of course, mention that though you may be beyond view of any peeping golfers while loitering on Black's Beach, in the summer months the air around here can be full of peeping hang-gliders and paragliders flying off from the Gliderport... so behave yourselves!

The beach is patrolled by the park rangers. No alcohol or pets are allowed in the area. If you don't own or rent a car, you can get to Torrey Pines State Beach via the Breeze Bus #101 (it cruises the coast from Oceanside down to UTC Transit Center in La Jolla via VA Hospital) and get off at the north entrance to the park or at the Gliderport (on Torrey Pines Scenic Drive). Black's Beach can be got at by taking MTS bus#27 to Calle Frecosta and La Jolla Shores Drive.

La Jolla Shores Beach: Immediately to the south of bluffs-lined Black's Beach in La Jolla, San Diego, is a mile long sandy beach separating rustically ritzy bungalows from the crashing Pacific Ocean. Aside from housing UCSD's renown Scripps Institute of Oceanography (with its lovely Birch Aquarium) and Scripps Pier, this beach is known for its gentle surf and great scuba diving condition.

To get to La Jolla Shores Beach, exit I-5 at La Jolla Village Drive (west), turn left onto Torrey Pines Rd, then onto La Jolla Shores Dr (it's a 3 way intersection). Turn right toward the ocean at Avenida de la Playa and follow it to Camino del Oro. The beach is serviced by MTS bus #27 (from Downtown San Diego to UTC Transit Ctr via Pacific Beach and La Jolla)... It is a good idea to get there via bus if you can. The parking lots here tend to get filled up by noon even on weekdays... And once people get here, they don't want to leave!

It is a decidedly family-friendly beach with a good size handicap accessible parking lot at the beach's main entrance on Camino del Oro, good picnic ground at grassy Kellogg Park, public restroom, concrete boardwalk, a beachfront boat launch at the foot of Avenida de la Playa, lifeguard service from 9AM-dusk (station is located by the parking lot), beach fire containers, separated areas for swimming and surfing (though the wave isn't very good here).

There is a submarine canyon just offshore on the southern end of the beach that makes for really awesome scuba diving and kayaking. The view is great both on and off shore... if you are kayaking, though, watch out for seals, too. They mostly hang to the south of here, but will occasionally come by to perk (and stink) up the seaside.

La Jolla Cove (1100 Coast Boulevard): is a tiny little stretch of sandy beach flanked by ocean-sculpted sandstone cliffs. If you have ever been sent a postcard from La Jolla, then chances are good that you have seen the Cove. It's the locals' favorite hang out where you can swim in the sparklingly clear water (on really clear day you can see 30 feet under the water!), or snorkel or scuba dive.

Like all the previous beaches on the list, all fauna and flora here are protected... And you do run into a lot of wild sea lives here. There is a bunch of pelicans hanging at a cliff a short walk to the north, which are regularly visited by hunting seals and some blue cranes. Hikers can go for a walk on a coastal trail and even visit the Sunny Jim Cave via the staircase down from The Cave Store just up the hill from here.

The beach is well staffed with lifeguards from 10AM-dusk. Open beach fires are prohibited here (so bring sandwiches instead of uncooked burgers). Alcohol is banned at all time on the beach, but is allowed from 12-8PM at Scripps Park above it.

I'm afraid parking will be quite a problem if you are arriving by car (exit I-5 at La Jolla Village Dr west, turn left on Torrey Pines Rd, right on Prospect and keep right onto Coast Blvd). Strangely enough, there is no public parking lot servicing the beach and the park. The closest bus stops to the Cove are on Pomerado St in downtown La Jolla (about 4 city blocks up the hill), serviced by MTS bus #27.

And when you get hungry, right above the Cove is the grassy spread of Ellen Browning Scripps Park (where you can find a public restroom and showers) and downtown La Jolla with its awesome restaurants and boutique shops.

Children's Pool Beach (La Casa at 850 Coast Blvd): This little beach at the western tip of La Jolla peninsula was artificially created by an accessible concrete seawall to provide a safe place for children to swim in the ocean water. It is such a well sheltered space that the local seals and sea lions had taken possession of the place, much to the delight of children and nature lovers (and many local businesses they patronized on their way to see the seals).

Like next door La Jolla Cove, Children's Pool is just a short walk from downtown La Jolla and its shops... and also doesn't have a public parking lot. With the seals hanging out here all the time, the beach is usually off limit to people (it's against the law to disturb protected species here), but there is a good sport to be had walking down to observe these sunbathing cuties (if only they don't smell like oozing dead fish I'd entertain the idea of cuddling with one) from the seawall.... Which is wheelchair accessible (though pretty tightly so). Scuba diving in the area is excellent (though you have to keep an eye on those seals and sea lions). There is a public restroom with shower beneath the well manned lifeguard station.

Here is a little slide show of photos from the shore of La Jolla at Youtube. Drop in when you are in town and get a taste of paradise!

Published by M Smorg

Generation X'er lover of opera and classical music. Casual pianist & clarinetist working in laboratory medicine. Reachable at sdcmorg@yahoo.com (please put 'AC' on subject line).  View profile

La Jolla has good surfing beaches (Torrey Pines) as well as good snorkeling ones (La Jolla Cove) in well preserved condition. Be careful of the cliffs edge, though. They occasionally crumble into the ocean with people on them.

7 Comments

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  • Rose Richmond12/11/2009

    I want to go to California...Sounds great.

  • Sheri Fresonke Harper10/30/2009

    I love snorkel beaches :)

  • Maria Roth9/23/2009

    Very informative! I don't believe I went to La Jolla when we visited San Diego, but I know my friend wanted us to go see the sea lions...seals, whichever...

  • Langley Cornwell9/23/2009

    I pretty much love all beaches. Great description of La Jolla as a cute little ritzy enclave.

  • Jenny Powers9/23/2009

    I haven't heard of La Jolla beaches before. Thanks.

  • freakmamma9/22/2009

    I was never a fan of the beaches in La Jolla, I was more of a PB girl lol

  • Christine Zibas9/22/2009

    This is a great article. I need to print this out or come back and take notes. I've been to La Jolle (once), but need to check out more of the beaches. It is a lovely place!

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