The Beginning Skiers Guide to Ski Boots

The next investment in ski equipment you make, after a pair of ski socks, should be a good pair of ski boots. Don't buy boots for their looks, for their price, because your best friend wears them, or their supposed "hi-tech" features. The only reason to buy ski boots is because they fit.

Why do I recommend buying boots before buying skis? You can't give skis a good test if you don't have well-fitted boots. Skiing works because the rigid ski boot transfers changes in your weight and leg position through the binding to the ski. (See the illustraiton, and look at how the skis are tipped on edge to make the turn, with the whole lower leg in a straight line with the ski). If the boot is not a good fit, you will have to use foot and thigh muscles to try to shove the ski into position for turns. You'll end up exhausted by noon - with foot cramps.

Well-fitted ski boots improve your skiing because your movements are transferred to the skis immediately, and the skis become an extension of your leg. If your ski boots are loose, much of the control movement is lost because your feet slide around in the boot. I'm a beginning skier, but even I could tell the difference in my skiing when I had my own ski boots instead of rental boots. My turns were better, and I turned with less effort. It was like changing from driving a sedan to a sports car. I will admit that I fell more often on the first run with the new boots because the quick turns surprised me.

At their best, ski boots feel like padded, well-fitted, cement overshoes. Anything else is painful, dangerous or both. So, what does a well-fitted ski boot feel like? I think you will know it when you feel it - I did. This won't help the guys, but it's like a really good strapless bra ... it's just there for you. Your foot and lower leg should be in full contact with the boot liner, with no pinching. It will be very snug, but there are no points where it is tighter than others. If your foot can slide side-to-side or toe-to-heel, the boot is too big. If it feels like your foot is in a vice, the boot is too narrow, if your toes are jammed into the tip, the boot is too short.

Buying tips for ski boots:

Boot sizing is weird - there's no other name for it. "Mondo" sizing is supposed to be the length of the boot's inside sole in centimeters, but if you start comparing boots it varies between boots, even between different models of boots from the same maker. That's another reason for trying on lots of boots.

If the boots almost fit, keep looking. Don't let anyone talk you into settling for "almost".

Do not buy boots on-line unless the seller has a good return policy.

Before you go shopping for ski boots, get a pair of real ski socks.

Be prepared to shop through as many stores or even as many towns as you have to. Not every retailer carries every model of every brand.

Keep track of the brands, sizes, and models that you have tried and rejected so you don't waste time.

Try different models and different sizes of the same model on your left and right feet. Keep the "winner" on and test it against newcomers. Remember, though, your feet are probably not identical and may vary in size so when you find "winners," try on both boots.

If you think you found the right ski boot, buckle it up as tight as if you were skiing and walk around the store for a few minutes. Then drop into a skiing position. How does it feel? Pay special attention to the way the tongue of the boot feels. If it is too narrow it will be gouging into your shins after one run.

Don't buy "beginner" boots. If you have a limited budget, wait until the end of the season and buy better boots on sale.

"All mountain" boots are best for the typical skier.

"High performance boots" will not make you ski better. Stick with the "all mountain" boots unless you are an aggressive skier on tough terrain.

Ski Boot Parts and Jargon:

Most ski boots have two components, the shell and the liner. The hard outer shell looks like armor for alien invaders. This often has knobs or levers so the angle of the boot's cuff can be adjusted to fit your anatomy or skiing style. If the shape of the shell doesn't match the shape of your foot, there is no way to change it except by adding padding. The soft padded liner protects you from the shell and insulates your foot. Recent boots have a removable liner, which makes custom-fitting a boot easier. Don't worry if you remove a ski boot and the liner comes out with your foot. Just stuff it back in.

There may be a removable insole, which will probably be a flat bit of useless fabric. Ski shops sell real "foot beds" that can be heat-shaped to your foot. These are better than buying an insole meant for street shoes. Some models of ski boot will be custom fit by heating the liners and then having you walk around in them for 5 to 10 minutes. If you buy these, make sure you have an excellent custom footbed before the thermal fitting starts.

The word "volume" refers to the shape of your foot. A high volume foot is wide across the ball of the foot, may have a wide heel, and has a high instep. If you have problems buying loafers because most of them cut into the top of your foot, or you are always looking for a "W" on the shoe-box, you probably have a high volume foot. A low volume foot is narrow with a low instep.

"Stiff" versus "soft" is confusing. Looking at boots, they all look stiff. What this really means is how flexible the boot is when you bend your ankles and put your weight on the tongue. Beginning and average skiers should have soft boots. Stiff boots transmit more of your movement to the skis. That's great for downhill racing, but nerve-wracking for the typical skier.