The Everything Mountain: Taipei, Taiwan

A rooster crows urgently in the distance. I turn over in my bed, immediately feeling the effects of jet lag. A few hours earlier on this summer morning, I had just arrived to visit relatives in Taipei, the capital city of Taiwan. This island off the coast of China in Southeast Asia is nearly half a world away and a grueling 24-hour flight from my home in Chicopee. My sister shook me into consciousness with a reference to Tiger's Head Mountain in Sungshan Nature Reserve on the southern edge of the city.

"Cynthia! Wake up! We're going to climb the mountain with Diye Diye (my 80-year-old grandfather)."

I looked at the clock and sighed. It is early. 'Who would want to go mountain climbing at four in the morning?' I wonder and then remember this is Asia, where even the old exercise early to avoid the heat of the day. I am also about to discover what it means to live on an island where arable land is at a premium and where many Taipei residents seek a daily respite from their crowded city in the mountains that surround it.

I get up, clean myself, lace up my sneakers, and head outside where Diye Diye and my sister await. The air has already begun to warm up, but it is much more bearable than later in the day in Taiwan's subtropical climate where summers are hot and humid and temperatures can climb into the 80's.

I walk past the street markets where many Taiwanese will soon enjoy a traditional Asian breakfast that includes a mix of veggies and protein like stir-fired tomatoes with egg.

Motorcycles, perhaps the easiest way to get about in this city of over 3 million people, zoom past us. The scent of fresh fruit and vegetables is temptingly sweet. I watch as the neon light of 7-11 flickers to life. Ancient and modern traditions co-exist in Taipei.

Ahead, a paved road marks the start of our ascent of Tiger's Head Mountain, one of four mountains in the Sungshan reserve. The densely forested reserve has been called "perfect for hikers" and "one of the loveliest spots in Taipei" by Lonely Planet's City Guide. In addition to offering spectacular views of Taipei, which sits in a basin, the mountains around Taipei are dotted with hot springs, Stone Age ruins and Buddhist temples set in caves.

This early in the day, many local people are awake and on Tiger's Head, a short bus ride from Taipei's center. Terraced farming is done on the mountain and enterprising merchants have set up businesses in the cool of the mountain paths. The road at first slants slightly upward and then becomes flatter as we pass a moving creek blooming with wild flowers and swimming with brightly striped orange fish. A farmer is busy digging into rough dirt with a hoe.

As we approach a set of stairs, then another, I reflect. I walk panting past a bunch of elderly men and women who are almost four times older than me. I feel embarrassed as I huff and puff along, while they carry themselves with ease and grace.

In addition, they are dressed in bright floral pants and long sleeve shirts to protect themselves from the vicious bugs, while I am sporting a tank top and shorts. I look at them in amazement. Some are carrying radios, or large backpacks and umbrellas. One very old man is walking along with a thin, black cane.

The air begins to be much warmer, even though we are walking in shade under a large canopy from the trees. Sweat is dripping off my face, like someone has poured a bucket of water on my head. I lessen my pace and look around.

People using trees as "bars" to stretch, some old men are sitting inside a small open "Tea House" along the road playing chess and drinking tea. We come across a large yard where groups of people are practicing tai chi, dance, and martial arts. Their smooth synchronized movements and peaceful faces seem to say the practitioners are in a place far away from modern life.

Some exercisers are playing badminton. As we continued on our journey, I am relieved to see that we are finally going to go downhill.

The walk downhill is much easier and even more interesting. The hill is very steep but offers wonderful views. Two trees separate to disclose Taipei stretched below-its skyscrapers, temples and inhabitants beginning to greet the day. What a lovely sight!

The street vendors along the trail are eager to sell everything from shoes and socks to hats to pots and pans. There are displays of colorful clothing hung in the street. Freshly picked fruits and vegetables lay spread on the ground, freshly picked fruits and vegetables and even buckets of fish and coops of chickens for selection by price-conscious locals.

Marketers scream endlessly hoping for people to buy their products. Everything is lively and loud.

In hot climates where air-conditioning may not be that common, life happens outdoors. Along the path, I see two elderly people getting massages on day beds; a man getting a haircut as others wait in line; and an old woman looking on worriedly as a person takes her blood pressure.

'Wow! This is an "Everything" Mountain,' I think as I conclude my descent and a few minutes walk puts me back in the now bustling streets of Taipei.

Back at home with my grandfather, I think my 90-minute hike is a great accomplishment.

Smiling, I feel my grandfather's hand on my shoulder.

"Will you walk with me tomorrow, too?" he asks.

I think of the sweat pouring down my face, then holding his hand; I thought of all the interesting things I have seen.

"Yes," I say loudly.
"Yes!"
And deep in my heart I know that it would be fun, too.